This is a great way to start the day if you're looking to hit Solar Slab. Pro is definitely a bit sparse in places, but the majority of the route protects quite well. The Supertopo time of 1-2 hrs seems a bit on the fast side.
Update: On 12/21/04, the rappel slings at the top of Pitch 3 were replaced with new webbing. Enjoy!
This route, while good, is sort of like Tunnelvision, worth doing once, but not twice. The 5.9 variation is fun, but way too short. The topo makes it look bigger than it really is. This route can easily be done in 90 minutes, and if you simul it, you could do it in 20.
We did this route in 90 minutes, and then hopped on Solar to make a great day of moderate climbing. Move quickly, because crowds can turn what should be a nice day into a monster epic!
For those who are either seeking adventure, or a way to pass everyone else on this route, try out a couple of new variations. One goes up to the right of the route, behind the massive flake, eventually meeting up with the route above the roof. The other starts directly below the first belay on the right side of another flake and goes straight up, just left of the main route. Both are good, and go between 5.8/5.9 with decent pro.
Climbed it on 12/12/10. I agree with Handren's 5.7 rating since pitch 2 was definitely harder than any of the other 5.6 pitches (four) we climbed that weekend. However, it's really not that run out. Though you can't place pro anywhere you want, where you get it, it's good and reasonably spaced. Pitch 3 is not runout, since you can thread a runner early in the pitch and then sling at least two very good knobs before getting to the crack. Double cams are optional (and I don't really run things out). We really liked the climb!
Took us a leisurely 2 hours 20 minutes, including about 10 minutes waiting for a simul-climbing pair to pass. Probably the best climbing of our 8 day trip.
Photo: Eric Ponslet and Lucie Parietti
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.