Did the last 4 pitches of the climb last week. It's a good climb but I liked Sun Flower and Solar Slab better. The 5.9 roof is well protected and the slab above it felt more like 5.8 to me than 10a. You don't need any offwidth technique to pull the last pitch.
This route is amazing! However, Sundog is in no way 5.10a. You can do this in 5 pitches, combine the first two, then 3 to the top. The moves off belay on the crux pitch are solid 5.9, then you pull onto a 5.8(+) slab to belay. The topout, while committing, is probably 5.8+/5.9- with so-so pro. A big bro is nice here if you arent comfortable on the wide stuff.
The lower level of this wall is kind of trashy - lots of loose and crumbly ledges. No obvious death holds, but you will want to climb gingerly. I had trouble deciding where to go right at the end of pitch one (*not* to the lowest hueco), and where to go left at the end of pitch two (looks like several options would work). The moves are nice, but its like climbing on egg shells.
The upper route (Sundog) is really fun. Much better rock, varied, easy to read the rock. The crux is short, well-bolted, and probably not really 5.10. Do a couple of easy routes at the Gallery before you do this route, and you'll think this one is pretty straightforward.
Photo: Eric Ponslet and Lucie Parietti
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