Cool, spicy climbing on small varnish edges make this climb a stark contrast to the incut chicken heads and flakes found elsewhere - Be solid at placing small pro because there are runouts (not Tuolumne or Squamish Apron style). Be prepared for "Hey! Look kids! A climber!" calls as this cliff is near a popular trail - It's great climbing though so don't miss it.
All I kept thinking was....boy, I'm glad I didn't try to lead this. Great climbing for the second, but for the leader (I suspect and heard from my partner) that the gear is a bit hard to find and questionable. Route was great fun, but make sure you know what you're doing before jumping on. Be a solid .10 leader and experienced with placing pro before setting off.
imho, the gear on this route is BOMBER, but not immediately obvious, especially the piece that guards the start of the crux section.
this is definitely not a beginner's .10 as you are doing moves well above gear, but not dangerously so.
also imho, this is probably the best route on the cliff!
(for the more enthusiastic, instead of going to the top, stop at the horizontal break about 15' above the last bolt and head right to a stance and build an anchor, then lower, setting up a top rope on the test piece Aikido Gun Boy, .11d!)
That Bachar route- Sheep Trail, is about 40' right of Chicken, and yeah, its pretty spicy at .10a (and originally rated 5.8!). I got good gear in the whole way, but had to work for it more than I did on Chicken.
The Ragged Edges area in Willow Spring is the most accessible crag in the main canyons at Red Rocks.
Photo: Sarah Felchlin
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