Eagle Dance, Eagle Wall 5.10c A0

 
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (1)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Ken

Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
Feb 9, 2004 - 04:59pm
 
5.10d pitch 8, steep stemming
pitch 9 is a bolted crack / ramp
pitch 4 is 10a
combine pitch 1 & 2 with 60m rope

raps:
9 to 8
8 to 5
5 to 3
3 to 2
2 to ground

9 hours car to car
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Colt45

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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   Feb 10, 2004 - 09:02pm
The walkdown descent is pretty reasonable, and beautiful--I think it would be much better than rapping (although it may take longer). To do this just follow the ridge line and go around an obvious red tower. Follow cairns and the ridgeline, then cruise down the drainage. There is a whole system of hidden canyons BEHIND Oak Creek Canyon that you get to see during this descent!
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George Bell

Trad climber
Colorado
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   May 4, 2004 - 07:30pm
Kudos to the ASCA for rebolting this route! Great job guys!

I found pitch 9 to be bizarre and freaky. The first (brand new!) bolt wiggles visibly and does not instill confidence. I think this reflects on the crumbly nature of the rock. This pitch is a lot different in character from the lower pitches. It looks easy, but those nice edges are gone!
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Doug Hemken

climber
Madison, WI
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   Nov 28, 2005 - 04:10pm
We did this through pitch 8 on 15 November. Saw what we thought was a peregrine at the cave atop pitch 3. It landed in the cave and screeched at me just as I was getting ready to second p4!

see http://www.climbingredrocks.com/community/album/283.html

The aid pitch worked pretty easily with a bunch of shoulder length slings, but an etrier per climber would certainly speed things up.
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vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2009 - 10:48pm
 
fairly good up to the pitch before the bolt ladder, then the rock quality degraded very quickly. the rock above the bolt ladder is definitely not so good...and the belay location makes it fairly spooky- i would say a helmet is mandatory on this route due to possible rockfall on several pitches.

for reference:

if you're 5'10" or taller, you dont really need any slings for your feet on the bolt ladder, just take and reach- thank goodness george is so short!

the left-hand bolt at the base of the first .10c pitch (pitch 3 per supertopo) unscrews itself regularly due to the spacing of the bolts- finger tighten it when you get there.

a single 70m line will get you off this route easily (the penultimate rap is somewhat close, but still works fine).

imho- the best way to do this route would be to get up early and fire the first 4, then come down and fire levitation or another route on the wall.
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Eagle Wall - Eagle Dance 5.10c A0 - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
With new bolts, Eagle Dance is destined to become a classic.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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