WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
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One of the best climbs at its grade in Red Rock. Keeps your attention all of the way through. Agreed that the original start to the route is the way to go. This route is absolutely classic, awesome position, aesthetic line, aesthetic and captivating climbing...WOOHOO!
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Climbed today...Ok maybe 4 stars...but this routes position and views make it a must do after some sport climbing in the Black Corridor....a gorgeous line from the road..
I didn't realise it was an R rated route but I guess it us pretty run in a few spots...maybe 50 feet on the easy face at the end of the first pitch.
I was surprised at the quality of the crack climbing ...real nice and clean under cling and lay back crack climbing....
Excellent long top out pitch that is sublime at the end of the day...
Riley
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TIM SHEA
Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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A Must do climb. The layback on the first pitch is the way to go. I liked the face climbing on the second pitch a lot. A perfect afternoon climb.
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outdooreric
Trad climber
Mammoth
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The route is only four stars if you climb the original first pitch in the dihedral, not the runout face. It's easier than 5.9 (more like 5.8-), takes excellent pro and is the obvious feature to climb. Take the standard rack listed and you'll be fine. The runout face variation seems to be a poorly protected, contrived line that shouldn't be included in any book. Climb the second pitch as shown in the supertopo with an optional 5" piece for the crux lieback section (more comitting than the 5.8 slab move).
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Great route. I recommend taking a pair of fatty cams. My #4 camalot walked too easy and scared the crap out of me, but my #5 tech friend had strong enough springs to stay put in a couple key super parallel spots.
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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One of the fabulous three 2 pitch 5.8 climbs in Red Rocks, The Great Red Book, like Ragged Edges and Lotta Balls, is home to some unique and adventurous climbing.
The top is bolted now, and the second pitch now is home to three new bolts where there used to be none, somewhat diminishing the adventurous nature of the route.
The climbing, however, is good and exiting the first belay is still pretty spicy.
Have fun!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
