Traveler Buttress, Lover's Leap, Main Wall 5.9

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.6)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
12 Total Ratings
5 star: 75%  (9)
4 star: 8%  (1)
3 star: 17%  (2)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Nathan Lunstrum

Trad climber
South Bend, IN
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   Jul 27, 2003 - 01:23pm
This is the best route at the Leap IMHO. The first pitch is very steep and good pro isn't always obvious. The 5.8 flare at the top is ackward but warms you up for the 5.9 crux. I placed 3.5 and 4 friends in the lower half of the 5.9 offwidth and also walked a 4 camalot ahead of me though the whole thing. There are some incuts inside the off width that really help. Also some good hand jams in the back. If you have a larger shoe size, over a 10.5 you will find great heal-toe jams though the hardest part of the offwidth.(My feet weren't long enough) If you lead either of the first two pitches the following pitches will seem trivial but have enough interesting features to hold your interest.
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Colt45

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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   Oct 31, 2003 - 02:09am
This route wasn't quite as good as I expected. It is fun and follows a striking line, with nice exposure. But it's not particularly continuous, as it is split by a huge ledge system after the first pitch and almost half the route consists of hiking up trivial low-fifth class dikes.
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Remy in Reno

Sport climber
Reno, NV
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   Sep 30, 2004 - 12:05am
I just did this on monday, and I loved it. It was my first multi-pitch and found it t be outstanding. The only thing that I didn't really like was the approach, it was hard on the knees, and then the hike back to the car was a bit harder. If anyone would like to climb this again or something else there and you need a partner or would like to car pool or whatever, let me know. I am new to Reno and am trying to get as much in before winter as possible. RemyinReno@yahoo.com is where you can find me. Good route and alot of fun.
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steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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   Jul 14, 2005 - 03:49pm
Great route from floor to summit. I'd do it again in a minute. Yet another "50 Crowded? Classic" I've completed without seeing another party on it the whole time.

For the second pitch I took a #5 Camalot, but #4.5 or even maybe just the #4 probably would have done the job better. IMHO, best approach for that offwidth is to get into it place a big cam as high as you can, then go into layback mode on the edge of the slot using the thinner crack out to the left to get up. Thrutching that slot gets ugly in a hurry.

Here's a shot of the whole deal that I took last week...
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steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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   Jul 14, 2005 - 03:51pm
Shot of the first pitch....
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steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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   Jul 14, 2005 - 03:54pm
Only one more... this shot I took looking down at my wife belaying just before doing the step around onto the easy main upper face from the ramp start to pitch three. This is five-star cool exposure no matter how you slice it! Loved it!
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   Jun 4, 2007 - 12:02pm
You can rap to the main ledge from the top of pitch 2 (i.e. the offwidth pitch) with a single 70m rope - it's a 110' rap (stay right). The pitch length getting there is a bit longer due to the traverse at the end (in other words, you could not lower off with a 70m - but the rope drag around the arete/edge at the end of the pitch would be horrendous anyway). There is a 5.10a/b route with a few bolts and pro where you rap - runout up high with a bit of tricky pro in a shallow vertical crack.

If you've never done the route, don't even think about rapping off - the next pitch on the arete is sweet!
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jul 25, 2008 - 12:36pm
 
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=640567

Cool photo trip report
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Jul 13, 2009 - 07:56pm
After climbing this route it's easy to see why it's not the most popular 5.9 at the Leap: that offwidth (the first 10-15 feet is really a squeeze chimney. Let's call a spade a spade) is a grueling full body workout. I placed a #3 camalot low in the squeeze then slid a #5 up with me until it narrowed to offwidth proportions. Then a #4 followed by a #3 finished the job. The hand crack afterwards is the best handcrack I've climbed in Tahoe, but I was so tired after the squeeze/offwidth I could hardly enjoy it.

After the offwidth pitch, everything else is just downright enjoyable and the traverse around the arete on the third pitch was better protected than I expected. Before you turn the arete take a quick look down and left to receive the full brunt of the climb's exposure. After the arete, I traversed on a thin rail left to a flake, then cimbed up to just below where the angle eases off. There is a small but very solid flake just to your left that makes a good belay using a .4, .5 and #1 camalot. From there, it's a full 200 rope-stretching feet to the top.

And for the "scary" first pitch, the 5.7 sections felt only a little harder than the first pitch of "Bear's Reach" and I thought the pro was better than on "Bear's." The 5.8 flare, while intimidating, protected quite well. I placed a #3 just over the bulge at the base of the flare and then when I was standing on the dikes at the base, I placed a #1 Metolius about head high in the thin crack. I then lay-backed about three moves up until I could grab a juggy dike. Felt like hard 5.8 and you might be able to get away with calling it a soft 5.9.

Definitely harder and more committing than The Line, and a more classic route (though The Line is classic in its own right). Possibly the proudest line at the Leap.
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Sabirila

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Sep 21, 2010 - 02:19am
 
Very nice route. I mostly agree with the previous beta post. The first pitch is not bad at all. Typical Lover's Leap crack with dikes that back the crack up and provide good rests.

The off-width/chimney section of the second pitch is not easy at all, definitely. With good chimney technique and some foot stacking, it can be pulled throught, but it is physical nonetheless and requires big cojones.

Third pitch is a lot of fun.

And the fourth pretty easy and casual.
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Ralphy

Trad climber
Green Honda Element
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   Aug 25, 2011 - 02:24pm
I thought this climb was a little insecure a bit scary and totally awesome! The p2 ow is well protected with 4 inch cams but it is much easier to pull through it with at least 1 5 inch cam. I quickly resorted to pulling on gear to get through the ow, the gear is bomber I should have just kept trying. P3 is a blast, p4 is easy.
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Rick Linkert

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
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   Aug 25, 2011 - 03:48pm
It's been a while but I remember two things that will make the OW more "enjoyable." First, avoid placing pro in a manner that will make the OW more difficult by having to climb around the pro. Second, set the fist jamb at the crux carefully before weighting and committing so that you can avoid a sharp point in the crack and be able to move up into the next jamb. After that crux move, it is pretty much over for the pitch.
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Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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   Aug 8, 2012 - 03:29pm
I had no problem leading the crux of pitch 1 and felt secure with big #4 and #5 cams for protection. The chimney of pitch 2 seemed much harder--after a few falls I pulled through on cams. Pitch 1 felt like 5.9; pitch 2 felt like 5.11!
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D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:27am
 
wow

i did this for the first time last week and it is one of my all time favorite climbs. the first pitch wakes you up with that bulge... that was the toughest part of the climb for me and i'm pretty sure that the sequence i ended up using through that section was about 5.11, damn

the second pitch just has a great OW... at first i kinda hated it because i was just hoping to get into a rhythm and keep inching up, but the crack is so varied in width that you have to rethink your technique every few feet. it's really thought provoking. a neat sequence to get purchase in the slot and then some foot stacks and then some heel-toe and a few jugs to help you while setting pro, very fun sequence and a great relaxing hand crack to finish the pitch.

the third pitch gives you such an adventurous rush when you pass around that arete, such a cool bit of rock there.

it really has such a varied terrain from the initial awkward bulge to the varied OW to a splitter handcrack, then into some exposure face climbing. all in a few pitches. a great time, can't wait to do it again!

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Lover's Leap, Main Wall - Traveler Buttress 5.9 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
One of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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