Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Wow, what a climb!! After "Deception," the best climb on the Hogsback. If you feel like you've climbed out this area, don't overlook this little gem. Even the 4th class traverse to get to the right hand start is exciting. Its kind of like the Hogsback's own little version of "Fantasia."
We traversed in from the bolt and after that, you can only place pro in two general spots: in a small flake below the mini roof (you can see this from the ground) and above the roof with about a 30-40? foot runout in between, which really grabbed my attention. I thought I could get pro in the small left facing corner . . . but nope. To add to the fun, I only felt confident about one gear placement: a #2 metolius cam. Everything else was in flexing and/or flared flakes.
If you climb this, be sure to climb the short second pitch to the right of "Manic Depressive." Its not as runout or as high quality as the first pitch, but its still good by the Hogsback's standards. Or, you can climb the second pitch as a variation to Manic Depressive.
Also, the first bolt is a 1/4" with a sheet metal hanger, as are two of the anchor bolts for the first belay. They did seem good to me, at least for 1/4 inchers. The third anchor bolt is a bomber 3/8".
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huckfinn
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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To find it, we crosssed the 3rd class slabs below past the wallbangers and manic depression, then climbed a ways straight up to a long ledge with two or three large trees. It seems like it's the last good rock before the hogwild area to the west. You can find the one bolt if you climb a tiny flake/corner up and left 3rd class from the leftmost tree, which is where we setup the belay. One or two friction moves left to the bolt plus there's not a bad piece before you set off. From there it's left to the flake crack which took tiny aliens and a hole, where I slotted a shaky medium nut, #10, I think. Long slings. After that it's 30 ft up and right of a small crescent roof (no pro) to a small ledge that takes you left, just underneath a tiny roof/flake/corner which also takes small cams. A few moves and you can finally see the anchor bolts, fifteen feet up. Reasonable friction crossover into manic deppresion. Been wondering about this route since my twenties, but never checked it out. Glad I did!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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We traversed in from the bolt and after that, you can only place pro in two general spots: in a small flake below the mini roof (you can see this from the ground) and above the roof with about a 30-40? foot runout in between, which really grabbed my attention. I thought I could get pro in the small left facing corner . . . but nope.
Here is a pic of the arching 'roof' and my buddy starting the runout. Pitch #1.
That section looks kosher from below, but the gear placements are flaring thin and awkward. I may go back. I need to finish it...
The start of the well protected arch at the beginning of pitch#1
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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The route as seen from Highway 50.Photo: Chris McNamara
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