Lextalion
Trad climber
Sonoma ,CA
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This looks like a pretty easy route, however the higher you get the more the cracks flair and the dirtier the rock becomes.
Towards the top as seen from the base, the crack system begins flairing and you must move right on to rocks that is covered in lichen. A lead climber needs to have good experience hand jambing on flairing cracks and the ability to not rely on their feet to power about 12' of the route.
Fortunately for me, some one had already sacrificed a long sling and a biner that hangs on a flake within one side of the two paralle cracks run towards the top.
I felt this routes rating was sand bagged and while possile it was beyond what I was able of that day.
It didn't appear to be climbed much due to the amount of lichen and dirt every where on the route.
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Bit of a sandbag in my opinion. A little tricky for a 5.6 leader, the placements were flaring and dirty. Once out of the lower flared corner, it was OK.
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Chugar
Trad climber
Mariposa, CA
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I did this Friday evening b/c I wanted to hike back down to the camp. Even though this is rated 5.6, I found maybe 3-4 sections to be harder than Corrugation Corner and East Wall which we did later that weekend. I also felt is was harder than The Groove (with exception to the 5.8 start). 197' to a big 36" dia pine tree with slings and rings.
I gave it three stars because I enjoyed the stiff suprise. But this is much different than the 5.6s at Hogsback. If I recall correctly, this one is more vertical.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Yes. Sandbagged. Felt like a 5.8. Should have looked at the Falcon guide for comparison which has it at 5.8.
With a little pucker factor, I thought it was a great climb and should be 3 stars. Plenty of places for pro at cruxes with good rests but some dirt and some flaring cracks.
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Just Acquaintances is route CPhoto: Chris McNamara
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