Harvey's Wallbangers, Center, Lover's Leap, Hogsback 5.6

 
Search
Go

Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
Sort 9 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (2.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 100%  (4)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Evdawg

Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
Jul 28, 2008 - 12:15am
 
pretty simple route... nothing really that outstanding about it, but still a fun route.

i ended up using my #6 on that 5.6 mantle, and then .75 on that last mantle move...



here's just after that 5.6 mantle (just before the last 5.7 mantle) i used the #6 cam for this one, very usefull
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
davidji

Social climber
CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   May 31, 2004 - 08:04pm
It appears to me that the Falcon guide (Carville) calls this route Pip's Pillar (5.8), and shows Harvey's Wallbanger Center being the route just to the left. It seems more likely to me that Supertopo is right (and it didn't feel 5.8, except maybe for the final optional move at the top, where you could just walk right and belay instead). Anyone certain which route is which?
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
highminded

Mountain climber
Forks, Washington
Sep 13, 2004 - 03:38pm
 
Chris's topo for this says it is a good follow-up climb for Knapsack Crack. It also says that it is easier than Deception. I would, respectfully, have to disagree. If your a beginning leader, start with Knapsack, then move on to Deception (not "Deception Direct," just "Deception"). Only when your confident on the 2nd pitch of Deception, try HW-banger Center.

You don't see a lot of people on this climb. That's a hint.

Some things to know: The cracks are filled with a lot of dirt, sand, bushes and gradoo. The belay ledge is descent and comfy with nice pro options in the crack above. Throughout the climb, the feet aren't great (sometimes you've gotta really look hard to find them) and there are a lot of akward moves, especially at the top. You'll thank yourself for having lots of cams.

Though HW-banger Right is rated more difficult than HW-banger Center, it's a nicer climb.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
davidji

Social climber
CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Sep 13, 2004 - 03:53pm
The routefinding on this route is easier than deception, although with deception, the climbing is pretty easy whether you find the traverse right, or continue straight up. These climbs are all pretty easy, and I'd suggest just picking something uncrowded.

The first time I climbed this, neither of the seconds were comfortable hand jamming, and, since they didn't really "get" crack climbing, they had a tougher time than necessary.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
harmonydoc

Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Aug 28, 2005 - 01:02am
Climbed this yesterday, led the second pitch, my third lead. Felt more challenging than Deception to me. I found the 5.6 mantel move (not the 5.7 one at the top, but the one before it) to be more intimidating than the face traverse at the top of pitch 2 of Deception. I avoided the top mantel by traversing right (not quite ready to lead through such an awkward place). I thought overall it was a very fun climb, with a variety of moves (jams, stems, mantles) and good gear placements.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Archie Richardson

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Jul 5, 2006 - 07:18pm
 
The topo indicates a combined length of 170 ft for the two pitches (50 + 120), but when I tried to combine pitches with a 60 m rope I came up about 30 ft short. Need 2 pitches (or about 30 ft of simulclimbing). We discovered the 5.7 mantel variation requires close coordination if simulclimbing. Enjoy.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jan 7, 2010 - 12:06pm
The higher you climb, the better quality the rock seems to get. Last time I did this, there was a a good sized boulder on the belay ledge. It could easily kill someone. Please be careful. A good route for when "Harvey Wallbanger, Right" has a line.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
ryanentwistle

Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Apr 4, 2014 - 08:57pm
You cannot make it all the way from the bottom tree to the top tree in a single pitch with a 60m rope; as someone else said, you come up about 30ft short.

If you have a 60m and want to do it in one roped pitch, I suggest climbing up another maybe 40ft from the bottom tree on some rock ranging from high 4th to very easy 5th to reach a shelf where you can set a base anchor using three pieces of medium-sized gear (1.5-2.25 if I remember correctly) and start belaying there. Saves you having to switch belay in the middle of the climb. Just make sure you have 2ft or even 4ft slings on some of the gear placements to avoid rope-drag and keep the rope-line shorter.

Next time I bring people there I'll see if a 70m rope will make it tree to tree since it seems like more and more people are buying 70m ropes.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Lover's Leap, Hogsback - Harvey's Wallbangers, Center 5.6 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Highway 50.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.