Haystack, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.8

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
16 Total Ratings
5 star: 25%  (4)
4 star: 75%  (12)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
donny

Novice climber
Oct 2, 2002 - 09:35pm
 
this climb is awesome to get over the roof easily you have to find the bucket right to the left of the crack, and it will be a 5.7 move. dont make it hard and only use the crack to get over
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Nathan

Intermediate climber
Oct 12, 2002 - 02:02am
 
What a great climb. The first pitch was my partner's first 5.6 lead and he did great, lots of good pro and the belay's an easy set up. I thought that the first 5.8 bulge was more physical than the roof. The roof jug is key, it would be a chore pulling the roof with out it. Do the direct finish, the 5.7 bulge at the top is alot of fun. Enjoy!
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Juggler

Trad climber
Earth
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   Nov 4, 2002 - 12:41am
When belaying a climber below from the second belay, be careful not to pull too tight or you can pull them off the 5.8 below the roof.

For the roof: the jug is not as high as you might think. It's really just out of sight to the left of the crack. If you reach too high, you'll miss it.

Psychologically, the roof is the crux, but for us, the most difficult climbing was the 5.8 stemming leading up to the roof.
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Laddie

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   May 27, 2003 - 12:11pm
Did the climb on 5-25. Great weather, was second in line at 9:00 a.m., not surprised though since it was a holiday weekend. Was a great climb, and the fixed piton below the roof is very solid. And like Mike said the jug is right there.
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johnhl94563

Trad climber
Orinda
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   May 18, 2004 - 02:38pm
I should have read all this beta before climbing it this last weekend. I didn't know about the jug (it's to the left of the crack?) and used the undercling at the bottom of the roof to reach up and into the crack on the roof. The challenge was getting in pro prior to making the final move over the roof. The move seemed easy after that.

I guess I need to go back up and see what I missed.....
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ttoshi

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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   Jun 26, 2004 - 11:34pm
Nice climb, plenty of stances with lots of protection available. I agree with the others--placing pro in the roof took a bit of work, but was worth it for me (my red alien fit nicely and held my first trad fall when my foot slipped as I was turning the corner!) The 5.8 bulge and the 5.7 bulge in the last pitch was trivial in comparison to the roof. There is some variety in the climb with a couple hand jams and finger cracks, but the roof definitely defines the climb.
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ttoshi

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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   Jun 26, 2004 - 11:34pm
Nice climb, plenty of stances with lots of protection available. I agree with the others--placing pro in the roof took a bit of work, but was worth it for me (my red alien fit nicely and held my first trad fall when my foot slipped as I was turning the corner!) The 5.8 bulge and the 5.7 bulge in the last pitch was trivial in comparison to the roof. There is some variety in the climb with a couple hand jams and finger cracks, but the roof definitely defines the climb.
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ttoshi

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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   Jun 26, 2004 - 11:34pm
Nice climb, plenty of stances with lots of protection available. I agree with the others--placing pro in the roof took a bit of work, but was worth it for me (my red alien fit nicely and held my first trad fall when my foot slipped as I was turning the corner!) The 5.8 bulge and the 5.7 bulge in the last pitch was trivial in comparison to the roof. There is some variety in the climb with a couple hand jams and finger cracks, but the roof definitely defines the climb.
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Climbing w/Fibromyalgia

Trad climber
Gardnerville, Nevada
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   Sep 2, 2004 - 05:18pm
A fun climb! Be advised there is a Diamondback rattlesnake that lives in a hole just five feet right of the start of the climb. He/she was out sunbathing the other day (Aug. 31, 2004) in the sand. It won't bother you, if you don't bother it. Be careful when walking around the base!
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 3, 2004 - 07:32pm
 


here is the photo taken by the poster below. nice photo!

hope i don't run into him. i'm much more afraid of snakes than A5.
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TIM SHEA

Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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   Jun 14, 2005 - 10:27am
I did not see Skippy the rattlesnake at the base, but injoyed the climb. I'm glad I knew there was a "jug" somewhere or I probably would have tried to pull the roof direct. It's hard to believe a roof that big goes at 5.8, but it does !
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TShimkus

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
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   Sep 26, 2006 - 02:32pm
I lead second pitch and I must say that sending the roof was far more mental than it was technical. I had to place a couple more pieces above that piton below the roof before I felt comfortable climbing above it. It took me a minute or two to muster up the cajones and finally make a stab at the roof.

This is a must do for novice leaders. A great all around climb. Highly reccomended.
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Jan 7, 2010 - 03:16pm
I've never been too intimidated pulling the roof. It's standing on the face left of the roof stepping over it that gets me. Protect the roof well; someone fell here once and broke their hip.

For a stouter and more challenging start, begin with "Preperation H." Then "Haystack" will seem like a breeze.
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Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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   Oct 20, 2010 - 02:27pm
I'd been a little scared of the roof since a friend told me it was pretty hard. I lead the first and third pitch, but followed the roof pitch. It is definitely not hard. 5.8 is the perfect rating, and I will definitely lead this pitch in the future. The hardest move is right off the first belay ledge. Balancy finger jamming 5.8 moves to easier terrain below the roof. At the roof, use the undercling to lean out and scope out the foot holds on the left wall. if you reach your left hand up you can find a decent jam or a hidden jug. step your left foot up and move onto the left face. The move protects really well with a 0.5 camelot.

The third pitch has a pretty exciting 5.7-5.8ish bulge near the top too!

Have fun!
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Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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   Jun 28, 2011 - 06:08pm
Somehow I got the impression the "hidden jug" was below the roof. It's about 6 inches wide, the first 6 inches left of the crack IN THE NOTCH at the left edge of the overhang, and you can actually see it from the stance below the roof.
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Roald85

Trad climber
Los Gatos,CA
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   Oct 24, 2011 - 05:50pm
This was my second time climbing this route first time leading the second pitch. Great climb definately got the adrenaline going on the overhang. Started about 10 a.m. and we were the second group on the climb. My partner did the 1st and 3rd pitches and said they were both enjoyable with a couple moves that were 5.8. On the 2nd pitch at the overhang I read some beta about an undercling, could not find the undercling for the life of me. But the hand jams were more than great. Gear can be placed nicely and as abundantly as you want on the tougher sections. I think I enjoyed this climb a little more than Corrugation Corner. Would definatley recommend as a must do, the 2nd pitch is a must lead, dont forget the camera. And like Simmeron said "It's standing on the face left of the roof stepping over it that gets me." I read that you could also score some gear on this climb and sure enough my partner cleaned a nut, not a bad day when you leave with more gear than you started with.
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
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   Oct 25, 2011 - 12:22am
Great route with clean rock. Just FYI for those stranded on 1st belay ledge: there is a class 4 walk off if you head towards the big ledge at the start of Pop Bottle (just east of haystack).

2nd pitch is a must lead. Although I enjoyed leading all of them : )
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Greensnap

Trad climber
Sacramento
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   Jul 17, 2012 - 02:31am
Led the roof and I must say what a great great roof to learn on.. Fell a few times but made it over it was great! I highly recommend this climb.. the jug is there just look up before you get there or after you fall looking for it haha..
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ElGreco

Mountain climber
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   Jul 20, 2012 - 08:27am
A great climb, with two roofs and a final bulge to pull when topping out. The hols are there at the roof - take the time to sniff them out. Pro is also good. Watch out on some of the nut placements on this route. There are plenty, but some constrictions widen deeper into the rock, so your nut could fall out.
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Park

Trad climber
Reno
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   May 21, 2013 - 01:58pm
Haystack is a spectacular and adventurous route. The first time we climbed it we did the East Corner 1st pitch (5.7-5.8) and then traversed right to link up with Haystack at the start of the 2nd pitch. The 2nd pitch starts off with a 5.8 stemming bulge (takes 0.2-0.75 BD C4 & X4 Camalot's) and then lowers in angle just below the marvelous 4-foot roof crux (5.8). The climbing just below the roof is delicate friction climbing with an occasional small finger crack to place gear. When I lead the roof there was no piton and I was not surprised. I placed a 0.5-0.75 BD C4 Camalot at the lip of the roof. If you reach up with your left hand near the lip of the roof you can feel a decent flat hold on the left wall. Then get your feet on the wall left of the roof and jam your right hand in the crack above the roof. Once you get the solid right hand jam, just crank hard until your above the roof. After the roof it's only 5.5-5.6 climbing to reach the 3rd belay. We broke the 3rd pitch up into two pitches which made it much easier to hear each other and eliminated any rope drag. Also, we set up a belay right before the 2nd roof/bulge (5.7) which made it a lot easier to see the leader pull through the last cruxish section of the route. At the top of the last pitch I belayed off a bomber tree to the right at the top of the summit.

Incredible route! It's the most memorable roof crux pitch I've ever lead. Can't wait to go back and climb it again!
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briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
May 21, 2013 - 07:18pm
 
Bahahahahaha oh boy
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
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   May 21, 2013 - 06:44pm
Park, can you also write down some step by step instructions on getting past the 1st 5.8 stemming crux on 2nd pitch of Haystack and write which cams/nuts you place on first pitch, in order if possible. Thanks!
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Lover's Leap, East Wall - Haystack 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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