East Crack, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.8

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (4.2)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 40%  (2)
4 star: 40%  (2)
3 star: 20%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
johnhl94563

Trad climber
Orinda
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   May 18, 2004 - 11:41am
I found this climb more enjoyable and more interesting than Bears's Reach (and no crowds). It is a very enjoyable climb and although I don't remember any significant problems, it provided a variety of challenges. We ended up doing the 5.9 (some say 5.8) direct finish to make it interesting.
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caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Sep 26, 2005 - 04:05pm
 
I'm also of the minority opinion in that I think this route is better than Bear's Reach. Good cruxes. The 5.9 finish is the way to go, take a 3.5 or 4 camalot/4 friend if you want to protect the move.
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Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
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   Jun 18, 2006 - 12:47pm
Did this one 3 times. Once as 5.7 A0, once with a fall, and finally cleanly.

First pitch is solid 5.6 with a 5.7 move over the rooflet.

The first time I did the second pitch I backed down to let a party pass as I was losing it. I then traversed over to the right crack rather than following the standard line. 5.7 dirty/grassy out right, minimal pro.

Second time I committed to a 5.7 before the the crux in the wrong way and popped before I could brail my way back onto my footholds. The crux is a thin spot where you have to get marginal finger locks up high and crank off of them in ways that feel bad. Good news is that there is pro at your waist, and a reasonably clean fall results in minimal punishment.

5.8 belly flop/beached whale move at the top is worth doing once or twice in a lifetime, but is likely to break an ankle if you fail.
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Kupandamingi

Trad climber
Nairobi, Kenya
Jul 12, 2008 - 12:11pm
 
.....not only better than bears reach, but better than haystack and other popular routes in the east wall area. both pitch 1 and 2 are interesting and sustained. I did east crack then haystack yesterday and certainly felt this was head shoulder's above the few interesting haystack moves (e.g. the pin scars leading up to the roof and the roof move).
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Evdawg

Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
May 31, 2009 - 11:19am
 
fun route. i checked the topo after i climbed it and saw it says theres a bolt and piton at the first belay.... i must have been zoning out cause i wasn't looking for them and set a regular trad anchor.
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slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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   May 31, 2009 - 09:10pm
re comment below: there is no permanent fixed gear on East Crack.
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Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 29, 2010 - 03:33pm
 
I just led this route for the third time and it has become my favorite route on the East Wall. There is never a line at the base, the cruxes are thought provoking, well protected, and exposed.

There are no bolts or pitons at the first belay, in case you were wondering. But there are plenty of gear options at the belay ledges. The entire route protects very well, taking small to medium nuts and medium cams (0.3 to #1 and #2 camelots).

All in all, a great three pitch climb!
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Greensnap

Trad climber
Sacramento
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   Jul 16, 2012 - 11:28pm
Looking back on this I would have a tad bit more than 2 sets of cams if your a new leader.. That's just me, great route thou! First route was not that fun for me it was a solid climb for sure..
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acmissteen

climber
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   Jul 21, 2012 - 08:30am
In my opinion, this climb is totally underrated. Of all the moderate climbs I've done, this was by far the most continually enjoyable. Better than Bear's Reach. Better than Haystack. Better than Preparation H. I was smiling the entire route. The bulges were very, very fun too.

There is no piton at the first belay. Should be removed from the topo. Someone chalked in an "X" on the rock presumably where the piton used to be.

The 5.9 finish is the way to go for sure! It's nice to finish with 1-2 hard moves. great finale.
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aran

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Jul 21, 2012 - 02:32pm
 
Led this last weekend and I tend to agree- East Crack was so much fun, even more so than Bear's Reach for me. It is true that there is no specific crux to mull over, but the moves throughout are a great time.

Enjoy!
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Lover's Leap, East Wall - East Crack 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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