Fulford
climber
Canmore, Alberta
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This is one of the best routes on the continent. The only other route I've done this good is Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos.
Given the long, sustained pitches, I think a better rack recommendation would be a full set of nuts plus a double set of cams from tiny to 3", with triples in the fingers (yellow metolius) to hands (#2 camalot) sizes. There is no need for anything bigger than a #3 camalot.
This route is twice as hard and three times a good as the Red Dihedral, which IMHO doesn't deserve 5 stars.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Undeniably one of the best routes at the grade in the Sierra's. WOW! No pitch disappointed, and several are the best I've ever climbed anywhere. I second the recommendation from mission about the 8th pitch. You can rappel down Venturi Effect after the eighth pitch with two 60s, or an 80, (possibly a 70 but it would involve some zig-zagging). Definitely better than the ridge traverse, summit, then descent, that is if your ropes don't get stuck which is highly probable. Burl-tastic!
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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On the eighth pitch Chris McNamara's topo shows a short traverse to the left at a bolt to a possible belay. Instead, we followed the Croft topo at that point, climbing straight up for another 20 or 30 feet,then traversing right on sloping holds to gain a finger and hand splitter which leads to the top- highly recommended. The pitch is about 201 feet long!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Just got this from a SuperTopo user who just did the route:
Wanted to let you know that the Supertopo for Positive
Vibes has pitch two at 180'. I think it's about 80'.
Looks like you have the distance for the sunspot pitch
2 in place of the positive vibes pitch 2. I wound up
belaying around pitch 2 for the sunspot, which worked
out great because I didn't have any drag for the 5.11
traverse. Also, not sure that the finger crack leading
up to the 11a crux section is 10d. I think it's more
like 10a/b. Good work on the topo.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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i talked to peter croft about the rating of this route. we both agree that the crux pitch, if led in one really long pitch, as is shown in the supertopo book, feels more like 5.11b. or you can break the pitch in two and the route is 5.11a.
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