Finger of Fate, Fisher Towers, The Titan 5.8 C3F

 
Search
Go

Desert Towers, Utah, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Sort 7 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 3, 2004 - 12:56pm
 
View photos and read a report on anchor replacement here:


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=33317
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Feb 15, 2005 - 12:42pm
The 2" angle we brought was incredibly useful for hand-stacking in boxy pin scars. Big Tri-cams might be OK as well, or an orange Alien, but the angle was the deal. Two would be better.

The hand crack through the roof on the last pitch is glorious.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Nov 10, 2005 - 11:55am
Great route! More like alpinism than climbing with all the ridges, traversing and trickery.

Pitch 1: Fun 5.8 jamming turns into casual C2. Nuts and Cams, esp. BD Camalots #2 & #3.

Pitch 2: Short crux of boxy pin scars, we nailed twice but 1.5"-2" sawed-off angles will get you through this clean. 70 feet.

Pitch 3: Short crux right off the belay. More boxy pin scars. One fixed pin in the crux. 60 feet.

Pitch 4: Spooky 5.6 free traverse right, then through a short roof using fixed tricams. If these become un-fixed this could become cruxy. 50 feet.

Pitch 5: Tricky free-climbing up to a 3"-10" crack which requires beached-whale technique to surmount. 50 feet.

Pitch 6: Traverse left around the Duck via easy and exposed walking, then clip rap-route anchors and continue left to a muddy 5.8 chimney which ends on a nice ledge. (Do not even think of bivying here) 65 feet.

Pitch 7: Move right via exposed 5.6 climbing, clip a bolt and continue up C2 past fixed junk to 5.7 free climbing up and over multiple small roofs. 75 feet.

Pitch 8: One of the most exposed pitches ever! Climb the 5 foot wide ridge via good bolts interspersed with mixed junk (nails, hangerless bolts, dowels, star-drivens, bent tent-stakes, etc.) to a 4"-8" crack. Climb through the roof and then free climb 15 feet of horrifying 5.8 to the belay.

Pitch 9: 4th class boulder hopping to the summit. No summit register, bring one!

Notes: Do not fix the descent gully! If you need a head-start like we did just fix the first three pitch with two 60m ropes. This will save your ropes and you will easily summit on day two. Do not even think about hauling/bivying on this route. The traversing nature of it would make for a horror show.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 10, 2008 - 03:44pm
 
Here is a topo for the route

Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 15, 2008 - 06:38pm
 
Base jump off the titan here

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07x/video_titan
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 19, 2008 - 09:53am
 
Here is some great first ascent history and photos

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=726242
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jan 14, 2011 - 07:53am
 
Here is a free topo by Pete Robins/Ben Bransby, after first free ascent


Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Fisher Towers, The Titan - Finger of Fate 5.8 C3F - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
The Titan from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.