Great route! More like alpinism than climbing with all the ridges, traversing and trickery.
Pitch 1: Fun 5.8 jamming turns into casual C2. Nuts and Cams, esp. BD Camalots #2 & #3.
Pitch 2: Short crux of boxy pin scars, we nailed twice but 1.5"-2" sawed-off angles will get you through this clean. 70 feet.
Pitch 3: Short crux right off the belay. More boxy pin scars. One fixed pin in the crux. 60 feet.
Pitch 4: Spooky 5.6 free traverse right, then through a short roof using fixed tricams. If these become un-fixed this could become cruxy. 50 feet.
Pitch 5: Tricky free-climbing up to a 3"-10" crack which requires beached-whale technique to surmount. 50 feet.
Pitch 6: Traverse left around the Duck via easy and exposed walking, then clip rap-route anchors and continue left to a muddy 5.8 chimney which ends on a nice ledge. (Do not even think of bivying here) 65 feet.
Pitch 7: Move right via exposed 5.6 climbing, clip a bolt and continue up C2 past fixed junk to 5.7 free climbing up and over multiple small roofs. 75 feet.
Pitch 8: One of the most exposed pitches ever! Climb the 5 foot wide ridge via good bolts interspersed with mixed junk (nails, hangerless bolts, dowels, star-drivens, bent tent-stakes, etc.) to a 4"-8" crack. Climb through the roof and then free climb 15 feet of horrifying 5.8 to the belay.
Pitch 9: 4th class boulder hopping to the summit. No summit register, bring one!
Notes: Do not fix the descent gully! If you need a head-start like we did just fix the first three pitch with two 60m ropes. This will save your ropes and you will easily summit on day two. Do not even think about hauling/bivying on this route. The traversing nature of it would make for a horror show.
From summit, about 120 feet of fourth class to anchors. When leading last pitch, don't have second clean gear (just unclip from rope).
Rap 1 - about 100 feet down exposed arÍte / ridge
Rap 2 - about 120 feet down ridge to bolts with long cables. There is an optional intermediary rap station
Rap 3 - about 130 feet. First rap in gully
Rap 4 - 150 feet. Barely made it with single 100 meter rope
Rap 5 - 100 feet to ground
The Titan from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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