I thoroughly enjoyed this route, great stuff! I highly recommend the direct start. It's a bit stiffer than anything else on the route, but fun and fairly well protected.
Also, I would recommend leaving the aiders at home for the 'Ear' pitch. Liebacking while clipping the bolts isn't tha bad, and where the bolt ladder ends you still have to offwidth for 10 more feet! I thought the offwidth above the bolts was the crux anyway, not the lieback, which was straightforward and well-protected.
In any case, the route was incredibly good. Most of it is sweet, sustained .10 cracks. Beautiful.
* caution on the drive in, if it's been wet you'll definitely need 4x.
* pitch one direct looks foreboding but the traverse is pretty forgetful- I'd reccommend giving it a go rather than wimping out like we did.
* pitch 2, 4 & 6 are total classics-- rock/paper/scissor for those leads and remember- most climbers pick "rock"
* pitch 6 has 5 useable bolts, take a 1" tcu for placement on left at top of ow. It's really not bad if you ow with your left leg while liebacking with your arms and right leg!
* we disagree with the gear beta- you really need much less: med to lg stoppers, double set tcu's, double set cams to #3 camalot, 10 slings/qd's
* the views, solitude and echos are unbeatable
* on rappel ck out the first 2 pitches of Pale Fire- it's a great top rope!
Just so folks know, it appears the rap anchors at the final rap down the aid line (south face) of moses have been chopped. we watched a party epic on the rap and placed an improv anchor. may be best in future to use pale fire raps.
Shows the indirect version of the first pitch, and corrects the line for p2 and p3.
A view of the route from the base.
Photo: Dougald MacDonald
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