This is a fantastic route! Cold and windy, but fantastic. I recommend leaving your packs behind before bouldering up the blocks to the base of the route. Retrieving the packs was unplesant in the dark. The bolt at the 5.9 off-width start of the second pitch is terrible, but you can place a solid #5 camalot just beside it. 4-5 feet higher the crack pinches down to a #4, but the moves are insecure and the unprotected fall onto your belayer would suck. Also, we misunderstood the topo regarding how you exit the chimney. You want to exit the chimney to the right (watch the loose blocks), make a few moves up a slot and walk down a little "hallway" between the main summit on the right and a sub-pillar on the left until you join the Kor-Ingalls. The little inset topo made it look like the route exits left - there's some old bleached-out rap slings over there from others who have tried to go that way, not recommended.
did it with my two daughters at the end of august this summer in a very hot day: it is not a real north side and the first pitch goes in the shade after 10 am. it is very nice. the of width of pitch 2 is protected with a very very bad old bolt! and the fall is dangerous: bring a camalot n° 5. delicate 5.9. we didn't have it.... brrr... the rest of the route has very good pro. the route is easier but more sustained than the kor ingalls and maybe spots better climbing.
the approch trail was in bad but passable condition.
please donate for the free camping at the base.
Did the third ascent around 1971 with Mike Dudley. He got P1, the nice hand cracks, I get P2, with no bolt at the crux and nowhere to place our 4" bong, which fell uselessly into the bowels of the crack when hit, so to above the OW was unprotected. Then Dud knocked a ton of rock down from the top of P3 which I barely escaped by squeezing under a flake. The raps down the KI on the original halfway in 1/4"ers that creaked when weighted were the topper. Great desert day, around 25th ascent of Castleton overall, as I recall. I mountain biked in the desert after that, looked for more solid rock elsewhere, but Dudley always loved that stuff.
A view from the approach.
Photo: Dougald MacDonald
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