Quarry Cracks, Mt St Helena 5.7

 
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Bay Area, California USA

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ryanentwistle

Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
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   Apr 30, 2014 - 05:04pm
We had 7 lines running with a beginner meetup the other day.

Anchors added/updated (directions/positions stated are from the perspective of the climber looking up at the wall from the bottom):

Left to right:

A, B & C - anchors accessed from back side up 4th(ish) class, go up right wear there is a tree close to the rock
D - anchor accessed from back side 4th(ish) class scramble/traverse
E, F & G - anchors accessed at access path

 A) pair of bolts/hangers with quick-links added above the slab to the far left (above and to the right of the tree near the top); spaced a few feet apart; advise use of webbing/cord to extend 6ft over a fairly sharp edge and avoid rope wear/drag and can pad the edge with rope bag or something that way if you want

 B) current bolts/chains/links/rings at ledge above left corner of main face appeared fine/solid, nothing changed; can optionally avoid some rope drag by extending about 5ft, but edge is pretty rounded smooth so more for convenience than safety

 C) replaced old rusty chain anchor above the center of the slab with a pair of new bolts chain/ring anchors space so that you can just clip you own carabiner(s) and that's all that's needed; still easily reachable from the back side; advise not top-roping directly through rings lest you face the wrath of fellow climbers ;)

 D) replaced the old rusty hangers above the right corner with new bolts/hangers linked with chain; chain isn't climbing-company branded, but it's 3/8" hi-test stuff not the cheep proof-coil, so if 5400lb WLL isn't enough safety-factor for you, feel free to back it up ;)

 E) running webbing or static rope around the tree 12' back or so is pretty straightforward for the next line over

 F) added a pair of bolts/hangers/links above the line just outside of the cave/mine up the left side face (not the overhanging side); must be extended 4-6 feet over the edge; there was a way of slinging some of the rock in there, but it wasn't amazing

 G) it's possible to set a great rappel that starts free-hanging through the hole at the top of the mine/cave; anchor off both the tree and sling the (sharp-edged) block on the opposite side to keep the anchor point centered over the hole; I use multiple stands of cord on both sides and cover the edges they run over; even though it starts free-hanging it's great learning to rappel on because you can position directly below the anchor point and weight the rope before lowering yourself, no "stepping over the edge" to get used to; also possible to use this as a top-rope for a few moderate lines in the cave, I didn't climb it yet personally, but someone in our group did, rock is a little dirty in there, but not horrible; might also be a cool overhanging climb directly below the anchor point, but it's above my abilities at the moment, guessing at least 5.12
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ryanentwistle

Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
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   Apr 4, 2014 - 11:28pm
I bring beginner climber friends up here on a regular basis. I'm planning on replacing the old rusty main top-rope bolts on the weekend of April 12-13th and maybe setting some other bolts for climbing in the "cave" area. Anybody have a problem with this? Any specific requests for bolting additions/replacements in "The Quarry"?
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Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 5, 2014 - 02:08am
 
Hey man. It definitely needs to get done. But lets talk before you do this. Sending you a message.
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Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Apr 5, 2014 - 04:57am
 
No beta, but having worked and lived in Napa Valley and my late brother Mac a winemaker extraordinaire there, I always wondered about Mt St Helena.

Is it choss or is there some sound rock?

And those rocks around Stags Leap (private property I think, I've been above them as a road runs around near the top of them). I always wondered if there could be some climbing there.

EDIT

Thanks for the info Ryan^^^
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ryanentwistle

Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
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   Apr 5, 2014 - 08:34am
Patrick: There are lots of different areas to climb at Mount Saint Helena, and the rock varies. Many sport climbers head over to The Far Side or Bubble Rock which is right on the dirt private access road. The Quarry is down lower and much more solid rock with some actual cracks to lead on gear, so not as many bolts. Most people top rope at The Quarry though from what I've seen. Much of currently established part of The Quary is easier less-than-vertical stuff, but there are some other cool lines which might be cool to develop. My understanding is that Table Rock and the other stuff on that side of the road is much more choosy and harder to protect.
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H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Apr 30, 2014 - 01:12am
 
I was up at the Quarry today and noticed the new shiny chains. Is that your handywork ryanentwistle?

I did not get a chance to really check it out. But will and get back to this forum.
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Mt St Helena - Quarry Cracks 5.7 - Bay Area, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris Summit Collection
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