I was tricked into leading it by a much better climber (infinitely better). I had just done the first five with the dude on Frenzy. He wanted to go further but I told the guy that I had never led any 5.10s and didn't think I could follow a 5.10b. So we rapped off. The next day he took me to Sunny Side Bench (I had never been there) and pointed up at a crack and said "the hardest 5.9 in the valley lead that and I know you can lead 10's and be be sure to load up that crack before the layback section at the top..its sustained man and KEEP YOUR FEET HIGH when you lay off that." So I led it, it was hard as hell and gripping for me near the top but somehow I pulled it. When he got up to the stance he said, "what do you think?" I said the hardest nine Ive ever been on. There was a pause and he laughed as he said, "yeah particularly since you just led a 5.10d...BONE HEAD! I bought all the beer for quite awhile for that one. I think for me at any rate the numbers on a topo can get between you and the rock...sometimes. just a thought.
The normal parking area for this climb, The Lower Yosemite Falls parking, is closed permanently. This means that to climb an routes and Five Open Books or Sunnyside Bench you need to park either at the Yosemite Lodge or Camp 4.
Mill Valley, CA
Apr 15, 2001 - 12:32pm
Lazy Bum is beyond my ability as a trad leader; howerver, i strongly encourage everyone who might be afraid of a 10d crack to top this fun route. (As long as others are not waiting to lead it) The traverse to the right from the start crack to the main route was made easier for me by doing the splits from one crack to the other, then inching my way up to a great finger lock up high with your right hand into the main crack system. Up high, keep the feet high on the lay back. Lots of fun. Can't wait to lead it some day!
Lazy Bum the line on the center.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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