Really fun route with a lot more no-hands rest than I usually expect on .10c. There are sufficient solid placements for a safe lead, but they're not everywhere and some are picky about what gear to accept. The .10c blank face/tiny fingers crux is protected by a #0.1 X4 and the .10b fingers/lieback that follows is protected by a #0.5 C4. Make sure you have at least one piece in each of these sizes when you get your feet on the dike and you'll be all set. It's possible to run out of either on the thin flaky climbing off the deck. On the redpoint, I managed to protect those first 20 feet almost entirely with nuts, saving my cams for the harder climbing above.
The normal parking area for this climb, The Lower Yosemite Falls parking, is closed permanently. This means that to climb an routes and Five Open Books or Sunnyside Bench you need to park either at the Yosemite Lodge or Camp 4.
Bummer the line on the left.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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