Tried this motha in 1975 and it spat me out ,spun me round and cracked my heid.....was pulling out hair for a few hours afterwards.
Apart from the above I remember some fierce jamming and , oh yes , I finally decided to start using chalk in the future ....didn't go back thou....too old now!
Popular, but short, Stone Groove is often free, but if occupied just go back to Lunatic Fringe or Reed’s Direct/Regular routes. Stone Groove, while rated easier than Lunatic Fringe, is much harder right off the ground. The latter’s initial hand crack, upclimbed and downclimbed a couple times, offers a great warm-up. Starting cold on Stone Groove is a good way to pull a muscle or two.
The crux comes right at the top of the first section, when you’re tired. Precision footwork on small edges, good body tension on the lieback, and controlled work on the slopers and flared jams pulling around the bulge are needed. Above, the easy-looking hand crack gets hard at the top, but savior jugs appear on the right just in time.
For top-roping, make sure to leave several good directionals.
Stone Groove is right (just out of photo).
Photo: Chris McNamara
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