Climbed this today, 4/16/2017, despite the advice not to climb in wet months, of which this is one. Somehow the route was basically dry. Fortunately, I got to the top before the rain began to fall and it was just a pleasant April shower that got me while rapping. I thought the slab traverse was indeed worthy of 4 stars, and the groove was interesting too. Lacking the recommended Aliens, I think I only managed to get one good cam in between the (p) and the (x) on the 3rd pitch, so it was a lot more run-out than I expected, but sufficiently low-angle even for me.
Did this climb in 1965 with Peter Williamson. Seemed pretty hard friction in Kletter Spider stiff soled shoes. Had a cracked rib at the time, but didn't know it (yet). The flared cracks were wierd and couldn't be protected with '60's type gear. Forgettable climb.
I just revisited this route last year. We started on the first two pitches of Greasy but Groovy, which is stellar, but the first pitch is very continuous and the second is runout in you take that variaton. The regular start just looked dirty and awkward.
The rest of the route is a trad adventure. The cracks are weird and you can't get pro whenever you like. The route is a bit of a pile. Good for your character but I bet you don't go back!
Photo: Chris McNamara
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