Rockfall has occurred in the area between Skinheads, Underclingon, and The Tube during the first week in March 2009. Many large 2-4 ton blocks have ravaged the base of these three routes. In addition numerous trees were broken off or scarred by rocks that tumbled at least 100 feet down the hill form the base. I wouldn't recommend climbing in the area for at least a few months. The state of the bolts on the upper part of this route is questionable at the moment.
I don't realy think the upper anchor is contrived. it makes it a realy long excellent pitch. the climbing up top is realy good if not better than down low (steeper and juggy) but not long enough for a Pitch 2. so the ramp is the natural break but hey, you get to climb all the good climbing so whats the prob w/that. just clip that ring bolt and keep going into the steep. its worth it.
got this beta from russ walling: sketch ass anchor on Skinheads. Your basic one bolt. We probably stopped short of the real and contrived anchor up and right..... went for the two bolt anchor up a lieback ramp... no pro of course.... dirt... loose...
almost died (of course) and down climbed. did the TR thing off the one bolt
with the two biners on it. slight beta: all the holds have fallen off at the
low crux... you must be pretty tall to do it
You don't have to be extraordinarily tall to make the move - I'm not that tall a wanker, and at 6' I can fairly easily reach right and grab the hold, match, pull up and then grab the jug. No jumping involved.
At 5'-5", I can tell you that this climb is interesting, "spicy", even frustrating at certain points, but the bolts are at your chin, so there is no reason at all to pass the lead off to some tall wanker!
"there are no long moves, just powerful moves"
(or something like that)
Well, I've not yet seen a climber on this route tall enough to do a static reach. Everyone I've seen (myself included), has had to hop up onto a high step to stick the move. You have to commit to the move, but you are right at the bolt.
The climb has a cool, very thin, well bolted start that leads to a fun, huge jug, run-out upper section. It's a good time.
Whoever is tallest in your party should have to lead this climb. The leader must be tall or the crux will be thin!
Photo: Chris McNamara
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