I thought this climb was pretty hard. Typical Yosemite sandbagged ratings? I also agree that supertopo shouldn't put the comment that it looks harder than it climbs - it was exactly as hard, if not harder. The second pitch (are there two pitches? I didn't see intermediate chains) was super runout. I couldn't find a knob for my life to sling. A #6 or big gear would have helped. I was super scared, because the knobs weren't positive and I'd be looking at a HUGE whipper if I had blew it.
I think what made this route so quality is the physical and the mental crux and the change from finger crack/stemming to face climbing. So cool.
I'm surprised to see this included in the toprope guide... can you walk to the top anchors? It feels like there would be a bit of exposed sandy down climb to get to them.
The second pitch is an awesome top out option. From the chains at the top of pitch one, walk up and to the right slinging giant knobs along the way. Then climb up over a couple of easy moves and walk up the slab and into the brush and trees.
Pro: Slings for the knobs and a green alien for the top slab.
You only need one #4 for the top. It's easy climbing and there is a pod you can stick a #1 in above. The bottom before the roof is the crux. Did this as a warm up. Supertopo says its not as hard as it looks. I'd say it is exactly as hard as it looks.
If you want to sew it up double up on yellow and orange TCU's and bring two .5 camalots.
Supertopo recomends double of 4" cams for the top section. I do not have doubles of that size, so next size up worked just fine.
The crux of this climb is an easier version of Silk Road famous layback pitches!!
Photo: Chris McNamara
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