One of the best splitter cracks in the Valley, but of course it was climbed before the term "splitter" existed. I used to never leave the Valley without a lap, lead or top rope, on it. Now I'm having trouble getting past the crux. Werner used to free solo it as part of his regular regime. The best remark I ever heard about it was from Dave Altman, formerly known as "the mayor of Indian Rock": "the only time Five and Dime wasn't too hot was when there were snowflakes in the air".
I've done it many times through the years, led it
and, always a joy, great pro
anywhere you want or need it, bomber finger and hand jams,
but steep. If you use your feet well, it goes much more
solidly than if you power up it...
Set up an extended anchor on or near the tree to climbers left after you top out, that way you can keep the rope out of the crack for your 2nd or for a TR.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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