Entrance Exam, Arch Rock 5.9

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 19, 2008 - 10:34pm
 
a TR thread with a report from Jay Wood
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=549241

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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Jun 24, 2005 - 02:58pm
 
Yes, there is a hole at the first belay where large amounts silty dirt rain down on the first pitch. Needless to say, that pitch is filthy which is too bad since it would be good if clean. Don't expect that anytime soon.

If you stick that out, the second pitch is clean and very good climbing.

I took more big gear than I really could use. A new style 5 Camalot was great, as was a 5 Friend. The 6 Friend was a waste since all I did was stick it tipped out just to dump it. You could place one each of the 2, 3, and 4 Bigbros if you are good at placing them (or want practice with them). A couple of #3 (purple) Friends went in at cruxy spots. Stoppers are probably a waste of time, but there are placements for smaller cams than the Supertopo list calls for.
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nancy

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 4, 2005 - 09:03pm
 
Did this route on 4/2/2005.
First pitch is pretty dirty and sandy. Beware where you put your feet on top of first pitch so you don't break off or knock off rocks down the hole. Second pitch is much cleaner and continuous.
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ClimbingHuman

Trad climber
Bay Area
Mar 21, 2004 - 12:43pm
 
poop*ghost and I did the first pitch of this route yesterday. Weather was perfect for it as we were seeking shade. However the climb is very dirty - plan on brushing dirt off the features as you chimney upward. It's even dirtier now for as I stepped behind the big block at the top of the first pitch a large chunk of rock and choss broke thru and fell out the bottom raining debris. I'd like to finish this one someday but we both agreed that the first pitch isn't star worthy.
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Arch Rock - Entrance Exam 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.