My first 10c. Super well-protected, and my intro to crack climbing on the West Coast. A good climb to ease into the grade IMO. Stays in the shade in the morning. A complete delight that I will fondly remember. (I don't necessarily recommend warming up on it for West Crack, but what does one do when all the other climbs are busy?)
The reason why it was 12a in Reids book and now much easier is because they changed the way the route was originally done. The second pitch is not an R rating it was adequately protected with a knifeblade and some small stoppers. It would appear that people just aren't comfortable climbing with this type of gear anymore so they have to bolt it or go a different direction. They should call the new Bombs Over Tokyo something like I Bombed on Bombs. Just kidding it probably is a mighty proud line.
how ia it that this route is 12a in the Reid book and 10c in this book/online topo store.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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