I agree. Pro is totally bomber for the first pitch. I'd not recommend running it out at the bottom, since if you fell you'd be looking at a potentially bad pendulum. But once you start going vertical you can run-it out, which works nicely since this is the sustained crux. The face looked completely slick and greasy, but offers better friction than you'd think.
Did the route this weekend. I agree that the old bolt should be replaced on the knobby wall pitch. Also, we could not find the bolt on the 5.7 variation to the right and it may have been removed. After getting about 20 feet above the old bolt I chickened out and down climbed, however, it was fairly simple to step around the corner and get to the top on the last pitches of Schiester. The whole route is fun and the chimneying is well protected.
The 1/4 incher at the base of the Knobby Wall should be replaced, but this is overall a very fun, featured route. Don't rap off after the first pitch, go all the way to the top!
Photo: Chris McNamara
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.