Farley, Sugarloaf 5.9

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Apr 9, 2009 - 03:54pm
I agree. Pro is totally bomber for the first pitch. I'd not recommend running it out at the bottom, since if you fell you'd be looking at a potentially bad pendulum. But once you start going vertical you can run-it out, which works nicely since this is the sustained crux. The face looked completely slick and greasy, but offers better friction than you'd think.
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murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
May 3, 2008 - 05:50pm
 
do you have to do this as 3300 pitches, or can you link some if you have a rope longer than an inch?
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Evdawg

Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
Apr 4, 2008 - 07:38am
 
smooth right face, but plenty of friction. gear is solid the whole way up.
very nice climb.
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chumbawumba

climber
SF, CA
May 8, 2006 - 10:36am
 
Did the route this weekend. I agree that the old bolt should be replaced on the knobby wall pitch. Also, we could not find the bolt on the 5.7 variation to the right and it may have been removed. After getting about 20 feet above the old bolt I chickened out and down climbed, however, it was fairly simple to step around the corner and get to the top on the last pitches of Schiester. The whole route is fun and the chimneying is well protected.
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Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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   Feb 27, 2006 - 11:08am
The 1/4 incher at the base of the Knobby Wall should be replaced, but this is overall a very fun, featured route. Don't rap off after the first pitch, go all the way to the top!
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Sugarloaf - Farley 5.9 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.