Excellent Route. Bring a few extra .75 Camalots for linking the first long pitch. The p3 traverse protects well and links with the 5.8 finger crack above for a great pitch with some rope drag to a gear belay at a stance.
Approach: If Ellis Rd. is snowed in as it was this past weekend, April 12, you can drive down Panther Creek Rd instead.
My old Harlin guide calls the route "War of the Walls."
The third pitch takes decent pro but it is a bit fiddly (at least if you are trying to sew it up). I had done two thirds of the traverse and put another small alien in the crack that I knew wasn't any good (it was also overcammed). While trying to extract it (so I could try a different piece in the same spot), I mananged to rip the piece out causing me to fall. I took a short/medium length fall (10~15 feet?, this was 15+ years ago) and slide down a ways (the rock is not real steep here).
But I don't remember any fears about unzipping my previous pro.
Haven't done this route in over 25 years, but I remember the third pitch (the traverse) as being well protected and fun. It's worth doing the whole climb to the top just for the location, though if you do the walk-off it's a bit of a thrash.
I've been up the first pitch (1&2) with the 5.11 start but the 10c traverse (p3) seemed like more adventure than I was up to that day and I backed off. I've been slowly exploring the Cal Dome area over the years. This is pobably the last route that I will realistically be able to climb at Cal Dome (first 6 pitches anyway). If the 10c traverse pitch is sketchy I'd rather avoid it as I have no interest in getting hurt that far from medical attention. Can someone tell me if the 10c traverse takes good protection or is otherwise sketchy?
Assume that Cal Dome 10c is definitly pushing my comfort level.
If my memory serves me correct, the bolts were all changed (except for top pitch) in 96, may 97. The anchors are all combi one stainless rawl and one petzl long life with metolious rap hangers. The upper face bolts were replaced with rawl bolts. I would have to dig up a journal for the exact date, but thats accurate on the hardware.
The 5.11 finger crack start was pretty clean 5 years ago, it seemed like 11a when clean.
The pro bolts on p7 were replaced in the mid-90s, but the 3 bolts on p8 were nasty 1/4" until '06. You really can't afford to fall on that pitch (the double golden dikes) so the new bolts are pretty psychological...
Short description: p1 & 2 (original) is a splitter 160' wide fingers/thin hands crack (10b/c); p3 is a wild traverse under a roof (10c), p4 is a killer 5.8 finger crack to either easy hand crack on the left (through a bush), dihedral straight up (5.10 side of 5.9+), or you can go up to the dihedral then face climb left on knobs over to the hand crack (5.9). Mongo bivy-in-the-sand ledge (except that the sand can have burrowing wasps in the fall!). Then a 200' 5.9 dihedral (originally 2 pitches?), fingers and face/dikes. Easy ramp - 4th - to a flake and up on runout 5.9+ face climbing up huge knobs, a couple different ways to do the crux area. Then some more knob face leads to double left-leaning big golden dikes, with very cool but poorly protected climbing. It breaks off angle after that to much easier terrain.
Many folks climb to top of pitch 6 and descend from fixed anchors; bring a second rope. Pitches above are most certainly "R," but note that bolts on pitch 8 (and 7? memory is fuzzy) were replaced September '06.
First pitch is indeed sweet. #2 Friend might be a good piece to include on your rack, if your sizes in that range are limited to Camalots.
I haven't seen the topo for this route, but I hope it includes the direct start. 5.10x over a small roof then a 5.11a/b thin crack up and left to join the original route about 50' off the ground. It was pretty dirty when I did it back in 1992, but I gave it a good cleaning.
Calaveras Dome. Wall of the Worlds (red), Sands of Time (green), High Times (blue).
Photo: Chris McNamara
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.