Amazing route but the pulls for the raps are challenging. Rappel anchors for the first pitch should be a bolted station imho. Otherwise take 15 feet of perlon to back up the present useless tat rap station situation. A 5 star route otherwise.
Did an FA on the right side of the buttress BITD and rapped this route before
it was a route I think. We made the mistake of going down the south
side from that notch down low and it turned into a bushrap fest. It
was fine until we deviated.
Do the 5.7 face variation on the 3rd pitch- perfect RR varnished plate climbing! It also makes it easy to only use stoppers for most of the pitch.
Also, you can now rappel in three double rope rappels. One from the top to the top of P2, from the top of P2 to the top of P1, and from the top of P1 to the ground. Go way back for the pull from the ground- the rap station isn't close enough to the edge for it to be an easy pull.
What a great ending to our memorial day weekend trip for a few rusty east coasters... found it somewhat easier than Cat in the Hat.
Got a late start on the climb. Finally found it around noon or 1, waited til 2 or so to start (pretty shady by then in late May). We were two parties of two. Finished climbing around 7:30/8, finished rapping around 10/10:30... Alot of people who we talked to spoke of the chimney/crack that eats ropes on rappel. Thankfully all our ropes were spared.
We did *not* do the normal rappel route the way it was described in either the supertopo guide or the Brock guide. We did:
a double rope rappel from the top (with my 50m doubles) to a comfy
alcove in a chimney with a tree above the second belay ledge. I don't
think my 50s would have reached all the way to the second belay ledge... it was dark and I wasn't going to take the chance
a single rope rappel we did it with the doubles, but it was only
about 60ft, from that alcove into a chimney above the (huge) second
belay ledge. We then scrambled down to the second belay ledge and
pulled the rope way out away from the wall, taking advantage of that
a double rope rappel from bolted anchors at the top of the second
belay ledge to the (huge) first belay ledge
a double rope rappel from slings on the huge block right at the top
of the first pitch crack, we again pulled the rope as far away from
the crack as possible
We continued past pitch 4 for a walk-off descent under the Brownstone Wall. If you do this, you are trading the "adventure raps" for 3 or 4 additional adventure pitches. We ended up climbing a 15' wide chimney full of SUV-size chockstones. Hopefully there is a better way to go than this. Just note that continuing onward is not simple. But I'd recommend it if you like route finding, and this way you can take just one rope.
I found this route a bit loose compared to other trade routes in red rocks. I busted 2 holds. The first was a foot hold on pitch 1. The second was a handhold on the second pitch. The second one was a ~15-20 footer head first (the spot was slightly overhung, the rope was in front of my leg...). Tread lightly.
Don't skip the chockstone rap in the gully, if you do the chimney will eat your rope too.
This climb is very fun and can be completed quite quickly if you don't have too much of a traffic jam. It is also a nice alternative if Olive Oil is jammed with climbers.
We took cams from a Blue Metolius TCU through a #3.5 Camalot, one set of stoppers, a few hexes, and slings. My somewhat selective memory thinks that this was adaquate, but I would consult the ST just to be sure.
P1 - Very fun climbing along a dog-leg crack that is filled with jugs and solid jams. Belay on a large ledge.
P2 - Fun climbing again following a thin crack which leads to a rounded arete. This pitch ends on another large ledge. (This pitch is long: 190-200'. You can break it in two if you are on a 50M rope.)
P3 - Climbs face to a nice corner that ends on yet another nice belay ledge. (I broke off a few face holds on this pitch that initially seemed bomber.)
P4 - Fun, exposed face climbing to a cool summit.
This climb was in the sun most of the day, but did get some shade around 2:30 or 3:00pm. The descent has a couple of fun "adventure" rappels down a gully just right of the second belay ledge. Watch for stuck ropes.
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.