fairly good up to the pitch before the bolt ladder, then the rock quality degraded very quickly. the rock above the bolt ladder is definitely not so good...and the belay location makes it fairly spooky- i would say a helmet is mandatory on this route due to possible rockfall on several pitches.
if you're 5'10" or taller, you dont really need any slings for your feet on the bolt ladder, just take and reach- thank goodness george is so short!
the left-hand bolt at the base of the first .10c pitch (pitch 3 per supertopo) unscrews itself regularly due to the spacing of the bolts- finger tighten it when you get there.
a single 70m line will get you off this route easily (the penultimate rap is somewhat close, but still works fine).
imho- the best way to do this route would be to get up early and fire the first 4, then come down and fire levitation or another route on the wall.
Kudos to the ASCA for rebolting this route! Great job guys!
I found pitch 9 to be bizarre and freaky. The first (brand new!) bolt wiggles visibly and does not instill confidence. I think this reflects on the crumbly nature of the rock. This pitch is a lot different in character from the lower pitches. It looks easy, but those nice edges are gone!
The walkdown descent is pretty reasonable, and beautiful--I think it would be much better than rapping (although it may take longer). To do this just follow the ridge line and go around an obvious red tower. Follow cairns and the ridgeline, then cruise down the drainage. There is a whole system of hidden canyons BEHIND Oak Creek Canyon that you get to see during this descent!
With new bolts, Eagle Dance is destined to become a classic.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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