We didn't have a "partway-to-R" rating when we did the RR book (actually I don't know if we do now), which is what I thought it deserved (PG/R or PG or PG13 or whatever). Most climbers these days are very strong at face and relatively weak at crack. I'm the opposite, so the juggy but poor pro intro section - while only 5.10a or so - is pretty sketchy for me. Never thought it deserved a full R, just a partway-runout; probably should have just mentioned it in the topo/writeup. Greg
I did not think this climbed deserved an R rating. There is a section just off the ground where the gear is squirley but you have a good stance to work on it and its basically one move to easy climbing until the crux. Pretty much a one move wonder route.
A far better and challenging climb is out of control. About a 10 minute hike to the left. Certainly 5 stars.
BTW we did not have an issue with the follower swinging much. Even without gear before the anchors.
I agree with the quality rating. A really improbable feeling but aesthetic crux that will leave you feeling psyched when you pull it. For me, a big part of the difficulty was placing solid gear in the leaning crack, but it can certainly be had if you work at it. I can be a wuss at times and I didn't feel the route was at all dangerous.
I don't really remember any runout portion at the bottom. Plus, that section is so light compared to the upper portion that if you're having problems down low, don't bother continuing. You can also minimize the swing for the follower by moving the belay over. My second blew the crux but only took a minimal swing.
Deserves four stars: long, clean, heady, varied moves. Really a great climb. The Brock guide reco's gear to #1 Friend, but we found gold camalot placements at a key spot.
Note that the .10d crux could be eventful for the second if she/he blows it, as you will pendulum into a small corner. Probably not a major threat. Also, the webbing at the belay takes lots of sun day in and day out - be ready to replace it.
The Brass Wall as seen from the approach into Pine Creek Canyon.
Photo: Sarah Felchlin
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