A few weeks ago Petch Pietrolungo put up an incredible extension to Sinbad Herbert at the Lower Buttress of Lover's Leap. The extension with the original route is an incredible 190-foot 5.10c pitch.
Climb Sinbad Herbert (5.10 overhanging hand crack and stemming corner) and clip the anchor with a long sling. Move left up a few feet and then back right onto the arete to a bolt (it's about 20 feet on 5.7 to the first bolt so you might want a nut or small cam for protection). From there you follow bolts up the right side of the arete and eventually angle right on the face clippin a total of 8 bolts to the anchor. There is a 5.10b/c thin face crux and another 5.10b face move and otherwise its sustained 5.9 dike climbing.
You could do this route in two pitches but part of what makes this route so cool is that you are doing a steep and sustained 190 foot pitch. because the pitch is so long bring a lot of runners to manage rope drag.
The route has bolts right at the hard moves and then there are 10-15 foot stretches between bolts on the easier ground.
The climb is still "fresh" and a few of the holds are dirty but over time i this will probably be a 4 or 5 star classic.
There is a second pitch that is 5.6 R that is not reccomended. Much better to rap off with two 60m ropes. With one 70m rope you MIGHT be able to rap down to the first anchor but i'm not sure.
Rack: 8 draws and at least 3 long runners plus rack for the first part of sinbad herbert (1-2 ea 1-3.5").
Just did the first section. Fun stuff! Felt like 5.9/10a for me, but I'm tall so the stems are easy, and I like powerfull hand jamming.
Caughtinside - how do you rap with a single 70m? Is Chris a bit off on the length of the upper section (115' or less instead of 130'?), or do you rap over right to another anchor, or what (does that bolted line to the right through the roofs have another anchor)? I'm bummed, we had a 70m rope, but didn't think you could get down from the top.
It definitely is contrived if you don't stem. If I had to guess a grade, I'd say it is a little harder than hospital corner if you stem, but not by much... but easier than Surrealistic Direct. So .10a/b or so, but I have zero flexibility and stemming HURTS me. .10a+? .10b-? Whatev. You're probably right about .10c if you eliminate the stem though.
My partners were cracking me up when I was on stemmeister, so I can't remember that one for comparison.
I wonder about the grade on this climb - if you stem the whole way is it really 10b. Doesnt feel that hard, esspecially compared to a similar type of route in stemeister (10a). Feels about 10c if you don't stem and much easier if you do. Ive always found it hard to impossible to eliminate the obvious. Wonder how hard stemmeister would be if you didnt stem?? hard!
This thing is great. The upper bolted section isn't to be missed if you've got two ropes or a 70m so you can get down. I did just the crack yesterday, really fun handcrack, rare at the leap. I tried a lap on TR, without stemming to the right wall, but didn't make it (had to stem 2x.) Not sure what it goes at if you eliminate the right wall, but it's fun.
I have only done the first pitch which is rated at 10b. The second pitch rates at 10d I believe.
The first pitch is a fun slanting handcrack, I believe the crux was the first 10ft off the ground as you cannot stem to the side wall. The remainder of the climb is forearm pumping handcrack and calf pumping steming. very fun.
The climb protects great and is great option while you are waiting to lead popular climbs on the lower butress. It is quick, protects well, and you can toprope the .8 face while you find yourself still waiting for the group of 4 who have just decided to do laps on surrelistic direct.
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