My new favorite climb on the Hogsback. We climbed all 4 routes worth doing on the Hogsback in a sprint the other day, and found Wave rider to be the most exciting. I have used the start up high both times I have been on this route. Once traversing out from Harveys and the last time from the bottom using the class 3 scramble to the right. Both get you to the same spot with equal ease. We roped up about 40 feet below the 1st bolt at an exposed ledge, to get to the 1st bolt it's easy slab. After the 1st bolt is where it gets exciting. We found only three opportunities for pro on the 1st and only pitch I would call Wave Rider. The climbing is run out and scary but the rock hides features from below, this is a route that revels itself once you are on it. "Surmounting" the wave feature itself is some of the best mental climbing on the Hogback, it's tenuous, delicate and exciting. My partner found two "ok" gear placements in a flaring crack just above the crux (offset mastercam blue/yellow is helpful here) But it was just a mental piece. The climbing is easy from there to the two bolt anchor. It appears all four bolts have recently been replaced and are in great shape. The anchor has been reduced to two bolts and there is s scar from the now chopped third bolt.
We traversed in from the bolt and after that, you can only place pro in two general spots: in a small flake below the mini roof (you can see this from the ground) and above the roof with about a 30-40? foot runout in between, which really grabbed my attention. I thought I could get pro in the small left facing corner . . . but nope.
Here is a pic of the arching 'roof' and my buddy starting the runout. Pitch #1.
Missing photo ID#206885
That section looks kosher from below, but the gear placements are flaring thin and awkward. I may go back. I need to finish it...
The start of the well protected arch at the beginning of pitch#1
To find it, we crosssed the 3rd class slabs below past the wallbangers and manic depression, then climbed a ways straight up to a long ledge with two or three large trees. It seems like it's the last good rock before the hogwild area to the west. You can find the one bolt if you climb a tiny flake/corner up and left 3rd class from the leftmost tree, which is where we setup the belay. One or two friction moves left to the bolt plus there's not a bad piece before you set off. From there it's left to the flake crack which took tiny aliens and a hole, where I slotted a shaky medium nut, #10, I think. Long slings. After that it's 30 ft up and right of a small crescent roof (no pro) to a small ledge that takes you left, just underneath a tiny roof/flake/corner which also takes small cams. A few moves and you can finally see the anchor bolts, fifteen feet up. Reasonable friction crossover into manic deppresion. Been wondering about this route since my twenties, but never checked it out. Glad I did!
Wow, what a climb!! After "Deception," the best climb on the Hogsback. If you feel like you've climbed out this area, don't overlook this little gem. Even the 4th class traverse to get to the right hand start is exciting. Its kind of like the Hogsback's own little version of "Fantasia."
We traversed in from the bolt and after that, you can only place pro in two general spots: in a small flake below the mini roof (you can see this from the ground) and above the roof with about a 30-40? foot runout in between, which really grabbed my attention. I thought I could get pro in the small left facing corner . . . but nope. To add to the fun, I only felt confident about one gear placement: a #2 metolius cam. Everything else was in flexing and/or flared flakes.
If you climb this, be sure to climb the short second pitch to the right of "Manic Depressive." Its not as runout or as high quality as the first pitch, but its still good by the Hogsback's standards. Or, you can climb the second pitch as a variation to Manic Depressive.
Also, the first bolt is a 1/4" with a sheet metal hanger, as are two of the anchor bolts for the first belay. They did seem good to me, at least for 1/4 inchers. The third anchor bolt is a bomber 3/8".
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.