Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Did this route twice already this season - yea!
P1 is fun - was straight forward for me as new 5.9 leader - was happy to see that shiny bolt anchor and nice belay ledge after 165'
P2 got my attention. Go up and right through run out. Maybe one 5.7 move. I made the moves easier by standing on loose block/flake, but that baby is loose - I could easily tilt the top a 1/2 inch away from wall - scary - do not pro - do not pull on it. The 5.9 bulge after the run out is spicy, exposed, cruxy, but you can stable it. I did it easy first time, and struggled the 2nd - hmmm
P3 is...wild - I traversed left just under the first roof (not after it like topo drawing) - tricky - place pro in roof, reach left for those jugs- lie back and go over - damn what a move! Go up a little ways then you have to come back around this damn airy corner - exposure! Protect the follower on the 5.8 escape - you lived.
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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CMS and I did this last week. Was AWESOME! 2nd and 3rd pitch were the spicy goodness.
P2 i thought was the best.
however I did not even notice a loose rock at all.. or need to use one... just cruised through it.
loooved the heady start to p2 run out on 5.6 to a Pro( think it was small metolious) i got in there.. then pull the 5.9 move to pro again over the bulge.
small placements for the pro on that 1st 5.9 move. but can climb through the move to stance to place gear. seemed to be a theme on this route. all solid 5.9 moves..but u can stance before and after each moving making it a super fun lead!!
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cms
climber
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Thx Bad
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Maybe this is giving the crux away, but you don't climb the roof directly unless you want to make the climb way harder than it should be.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Just step around the block, whatever the condition. There's no need to even touch it. Deal with the runout, which isn't too bad if you carefully follow the best dikes.
One of my favorite routes at the Leap.
BAd
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cms
climber
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Thinking of checking out this route soon. Any update on the loose block? Thanks!
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nate2655
Trad climber
gardnerville, nevada
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As stated in the last post.... that block on the second pitch will not hold a fall.... i really dont think it will even hold a hard down-ward pull... someone needs to get it off.... i would have done it myself if there wasn't a line of people below me..... pull and stand softly on it... i think when it comes off they will have to bump the grade up on that section for short people...
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gino DiSciullo
Trad climber
CA
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Attention on the second pitch regarding the loose block about 15-20 feet above the anchor that takes a #1-2 Camelot.
Given the runout section many climbers will be tempted to place a cam behind this 80 lb loose tooth, however over the last three climbing seasons the block has become notably less secure: it will not protect a fall.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Did this climb last week and I agree with Greg, it was much harder for me than anything on The Line or Traveler Buttress. I will say the chimney/offwidth on TB is more physical, but Scimitar is definitely more mental and technical. I wasn't expecting any problems on p1, but some of the moves up the corner really made me think and got my head in the game for the next two pitches.
For the roof after the runout on Pitch 2, I got a solid #4 Metolius nut in at the roof's lip, then placed a bomber #1 camalot a few feet above that. This made me feel confident enough to do the tenuous moves over the lip. The 5.8 crack above is sweet with great exposure.
And like the topo says, the last pitch is definitely wild.
The largest piece(s) I brought were two #3 camalots, but just one may have been fine. I think a #4 is overkill. Compared to other climbs at the Leap, I sure did use a lot of nuts.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Yep, that's the roof. Good incut side-pull a little above the lip, but then pretty slopey higher, really hard for me to get my foot on the lip jug and pull it over (knee-in-face type thing). I also thought that the first roof after the runout was pretty hard/balancy.
Of course it all depends on what your standard rack is and if you place much pro, but my advice is to save weight on a big piece and bring extra in the 1-1.25" range.
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donnyji
Social climber
Washington, DC
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As far as I remember, a standard rack was fine. Remember climbing it 2 times, but couldda been 3.
Greg is a better source of beta than me--slobmonster too probably. But I remember this route being easier than Traveler Buttress, and don't remember it being harder than The Line.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
SF (via NH & CO)
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I don't recall needing three of anything on this route, but I could be wrong. Greg is this the roof you're referring to?
[Click to View Linked Image]
I recall each roof move to feel very similar, and quite fun.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Cool route!
I found a couple cruxes on this route that were harder for me than anything on the Line or Traveler's Buttress, but the climbing is less sustained. The first roof on the 3rd pitch was the crux for me (not marked with a rating in the topo), but I think being tall hurts for that one.
The runout on pitch 2 should probably be called 5.7. Also, when you get to a pro placement (a few feet below the roof), it's a slightly-downward-flaring crack where many people think it's fine to place cams, but they might pop if you actually fell. You can get a nut in with a bit of work, and the moves to the roof are easy.
Next time I do this route I'll bring an extra cam (i.e. triples) for the 1" and 1.25" sizes, a single 3", and no 3.5". Save one of those 1.25" cams for the second belay. Also, I'll bring more long slings, especially for the left finish through the fun roofs!
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crazyfingers
climber
CA
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Great route. My partner led pitches 1,3 and I led pitch 2.
Pitch 2 is a lot of fun with the 5.6 runout leading to the 5.9 roof moves. Protect well before the roof, or else risk a nasty factor 2 fall onto the belay.
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luca
Trad climber
milano italy
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I did in july with my daughter marta 12 years. good pro, but you need cool control for the grade. most varied, tricky and less crowd than the line.
do it
luca
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A view from the approach.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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