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Black Diamond Neutrino Review

   

Carabiner

  • Currently 4.1/5
Overall average rating 4.1 of 5 based on 7 user reviews. Most recent review: June 10, 2010
Street Price:  $7 - $8
Pros:  Durable, easy to hold
Cons:  Heavier than most other biners
Best Uses:  sport climbing, trad climbing, big wall climbing
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (6/6) recommend Black Diamond Neutrino
Manufacturer:  Black Diamond
Review by: Chris McNamara on March 9, 2010
Overview
A decade ago, the Neutrino was the first really small and light biner to gain popularity. It was dramatically lighter and smaller than anything else seen on Yosemite's big walls. I wouldn't do a speed ascent without them. Today, there are dozens of light biners available and the Neutrino has some stiff competition. In general, we prefer a biner like the Black Diamond Oz that is lighter and a little easier to handle. That said, many people still swear by the Neutrino. One cool thing is that you can buy them in colors that match the colors of your Black Diamond Camalot C4. That way, when you reach for a cam, you will know right away what you are going for. If you want the absolute smallest biner, check out the Metolius FS Mini WiregateChris McNamara

  • Photos
  • Specs
Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Credit: BlackDiamondEquipment.com

Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Credit: BlackDiamondEquipment.com

Specifications for Black Diamond Neutrino
  • * 9 grams lighter than the HotWire and same strength
  • * acking carabiner
  • * Compact, full-function design
  • * Large rope-bearing surface
  • Weight :
  • 36 g, 1.3 oz
  • Closed Gate Strength :
  • 24 kN, 5395 lbf
  • Open Gate Strength :
  • 8 kN, 1798 lbf
  • Minor Axis Strength :
  • 7 kN, 1574 lbf
  • Gate Opening :
  • 22 mm, 0.86 in

Chris McNamara, SuperTopo Review Staff

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SuperTopo Member Reviews of Black Diamond Neutrino

Most recent review: June 10, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.2)
Your Rating:     (none)

100% of 6 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
6 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (2)
4 star: 50%  (3)
3 star: 17%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 6 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
Write a Review on this Gear
Mike.

climber
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   Jun 10, 2010 - 06:57pm
This biner comprises the backbone of my rack, whether free or aid climbing. I like the performance I've gotten from them and for that reason have not looked at other lightweight wiregate Ds for some time. I did use some Camp Nanos and thought they were too small, fumbly and somewhat hard to clip--for me, not worth the weight and size savings.

I don't like any wiregate in a PPT paired with another biner, but that is specific to wiregates, not necessarily Neutrinos.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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geoffgeorges

climber
Seattle, WA
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   Mar 11, 2010 - 01:06pm
It is funny how fast the gear is changing. The neutrino now seems fat and heavy. I still have dozens of them on my alpine draws and quick draws, but have been using the Camp mini biners for racking my cams. If I could afford it I would use all non hook nose wire gate biners on my draws. It is really annoying and sometimes scary when the hook-nose is stuck on gear loop or slings. The oz is great for it's weight and narrow width-one of my favorites.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Rankin

climber
North Carolina
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   Mar 9, 2010 - 08:38pm
Great biners. I still have ten or twelve on my rack that I bought when they were still the shizz. They're still light, and I like their size and handling. A couple weeks ago, I was reaching high over head to clip a Neutrino coming out a roof, and I actually had trouble dropping the rope in the gate. Only time I've ever noticed a problem clipping a Neutrino. My biner of choice these days is the Mad Rock wire gate...lighter, bigger with a skinny profile (nice for racking) and cheaper.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Slakkey

climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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   Mar 9, 2010 - 05:08pm
I rack all my C4s on these. Yes, there are lighter biners out there but, these do the job and are reasonably priced and are easy to find. At first the color coding seemed a bit goofy but, to be honest I have really grown to like it in that it does make it a little easier to find a specific size cam on your rack without having to flip through then. This is especially helpful when using a larger rack for Big Walls.

The rack Pack also makes a convenient way to buy a set

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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msiddens

climber
Mountain View
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   Mar 9, 2010 - 02:47pm
These are my go to biners. Love these whether it be for racking, alpine draws or on the business end of all my cams. I've tried a number of biners in this weight range but for some reason these it my mitts well.

Get 'em and don't look back.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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jfailing

climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
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   Mar 9, 2010 - 12:35pm
I recently started color-coding these with my C4's. It's kind of a nitpicky thing to do, but it does help with organization and makes it just slightly easier to pick out what color cam you need.

The actual carabiner is nice. Smooth gate action, pretty lightweight, aesthetically pleasing, easy to clip. They're slightly smaller than other carabiners, but not quite as small as the Oz or Metolius Mini - just about the right size to easily clip the rope.

I mean, a biner's a biner, but this is a nice one and great to color-match with your C4's.

I guess my only problem with it is that it's not a key-lock, but it's kind of hard to have a key-lock wiregate, so that is really the only thing detracting from it.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Credit: BlackDiamondEquipment.com

Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner

Credit: BlackDiamondEquipment.com
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