One of my favorite--and strangest--trips with
RD was in 1984, when the two of us drove to Tuolumne on
a Saturday, climbed Mount Hoffmann with 15-pound packs,
then went over and did Tuolumne Peak--and slept atop it,
right next to the summit register. A great flat, sandy place
to sleep! At dawn we thought about that day's pivotal 49ers
game and so raced down to the car and were back in time
for the 1 p.m. kickoff (on TV, not at Candlestick). We had
been gone from town 30 hours, and had climbed two peaks
and driven 390 miles!
Another memory, this one much calmer. We had
backpacked into the Vogelsang area one September day, both
of us vying to have the lightest possible pack on this three-day
non-climbing exploration. One afternoon we were lazing around
and telling stories in a little valley and RD heard splashing
sounds coming from a nearby drainage. He jumped up and saw
tiny trout flailing in several 6-inch-deep pools--with no
means of escape, since the stream wasn't flowing. I said
"Oh, well, survival of the fittest." RD exclaimed,
"We gotta save them!" So we got out our aluminum
pot, captured every last fish--about a dozen--and carried
them a few hundred yards to an active stream we'd seen earlier.
I told RD that the shock of the icy water would kill the
little guys soon, but he just grinned and said they'd be
okay.
In town RD was not as decisive as he was in
the mountains. We must have had 100 restaurant lunches together
over 20-odd years, and every time he would stare at the
menu for three or four minutes before asking, "Steve,
what are you getting?" I would always say the same
thing: "Probably the Thai chicken salad. But it doesn't
matter. Order what YOU want." The server would appear
and RD would ask: "What's good today?" He or she
would offer a few suggestions and RD would exclaim, "No,
no, that's not that I want." Finally, I'd say, "Why
not bring us a bottle of the house chardonnay and maybe
we'll be ready by then." Five minutes later the bottle
would arrive and RD would say, "What's the Thai chicken
salad like?" I finally learned to be amused by all
this.
One day about ten years ago RD called and
said he'd bought a basketball and could I come and play.
"A BASKETBALL!" I shouted. But I remembered how
much I had loved the sport 35 years earlier and agreed to
meet him at a Berkeley playground, even though I hadn't
touched a ball since my teens. We clowns in our fifties
had enormous fun over two hours, missing 90% of our distant
shots and even layups, but incredibly making about 50% of
our free throws, about the same percentage as Shaq! Thank
God no kids were watching our antics!
The first RD climbing story I ever heard concerns
an adventure on El Capitan. Way back in 1980 he and Brock
Wagstaff decided they were ready to tackle the Salathé
Wall. Partway up, they felt a strong earthquake--but they
continued. Then, the next morning, another monster quake
rocked the Valley, and their bivy ledge heaved and distended.
They instantly packed their bags and rappelled. As Brock
wrote later, "There really wasn't a need for discussion:
we had gotten the message."
Not because of this event, I'm sure, RD soon turned to big
mountains instead of granite walls, and this is where he
shone. Peru. Denali. An early repeat of Mount Alberta. The
classic east ridge of Temple. Four attempts, then success,
on Robson. In the gym, whenever he hesitated on a 5.10 move,
I would yell up, "This is the man who climbed a new
route on Waddington?" Then we would both laugh hysterically.
In 1990, as everyone knows, he began a new
career--long expeditions to the Himalaya's 8,000-meter peaks
with his Polish buddies. He went every other year, telling
me upon his return from each trip that he'd never go again.
Apparently it took two full years to recover. And to forget
some of the travails in the well-named Death Zone. And to
earn more money. He got within a ropelength of the top of
Gasherbrum II on his first trip and reached the summit of
Dhaulagiri in 1994. On other expeditions, to K2, Kangchenjunga,
and Nanga Parbat, weather or sickness hit while he was low
down. But he never complained about this, for he wasn't
summit-oriented. Just being in that spectacular environment,
with good friends, was enough. He died in a majestic place,
with friends nearby, and I dare say he was a very happy
man until shortly before the end. The kid from the flatlands
of Kansas discovered early on that the mountains were where
he belonged. He couldn't have known that that's where he'd
end up forever, but I'll bet he wouldn't have minded in
the least.
Some climbs I did with RD. Not many, I'll
admit; we were mostly city friends.
- The Royal Arches, in 1985--RD taught me about
the new sticky shoes.
- Many trips to Lover's Leap, 1987-95.
- A Tenaya Canyon exploration, 1986
- Many backpacking trips to the High Sierra, 1984-94.
- North Palisade, 1988. RD taught me about the
new stiff crampons, which of course I didn't have.
- Steve Roper
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