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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Sunday, August 28, 2016 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10



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