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Zion
Climbing: Free and Clean
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Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the
most comprehensive climber’s
guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful
national parks in the United States. Inside you will find
up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s
best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s
most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from
10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making
this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available
to Zion.
| Features
only available in eBooks: |
|
Always
Fresh™ — free updates for three years |
Immediately
ready for download (no shipping charges)
|
Zion
Climbing Experts praise:
“If
you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend
picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure
that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking
for things that you can climb.
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read
the full review
“When
we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had
a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to
find routes without any aid climbing in them.
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read
the full review
“Bryan
Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a
great collection of route information that provides plenty of
leads to adventure in this magical spot.
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear
Innovator
“Finally,
a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion
big wall adventure.
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished
Big Wall Speed Climber
“SuperTopo
offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own
adventure with history to each route.
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber
and Mountaineer
“After
perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo,
I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free)
return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read
the full review
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| Complete
List of Included Climbs |
| Route Name |
Formation |
|
|
Review  |
| Lowe Route |
Angels Landing |
13 |
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3 |
|
| Swoop Gimp or be Dust |
Moonlight Buttress Area |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Gentlemans Agreement |
Three Marys |
9 |
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 |
|
| Master Blaster |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1 |
|
| Shune's Buttress |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
III/IV 5.11 |
|
| Wigs in Space |
Red Arch Mountain |
7 |
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1 |
|
| Monkeyfinger |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| The Pulpit |
Temple of Sinewava |
2 |
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall |
East Temple |
8 |
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 |
|
| North Spur Chimney Sweep |
Lady Mountain |
7 |
III 5.7 or 5.10 |
|
| Iron Like a Lion In Zion |
Isaac |
16 |
IV/V 5.11b/c |
|
| Weeping Rock Chimneys |
Weeping Rock |
3 |
II 5.7 |
|
| Micro Chuck |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.8 |
|
| Kung Pow Kitty |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.11 |
|
| 10 Percent |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.9 |
|
| Ashtar Command |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Bruce Lee Memorial Crack |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| The Headache |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Freak Show |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12 |
|
| POW, Right in the Rat |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Coke Explosion |
Cathedral Mountain |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Globe Boulder |
Globe Boulder |
N/A |
VB/0-V5/6 |
|
| Cock Smasher |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cherry Crack |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Fang Spire |
East Temple |
6 |
IV 5.9 C3 |
|
| Angels Hair |
Angels Landing |
11 |
V 5.13a |
|
| Tooele Tower |
Eagle Crags |
3 |
III 5.9+ |
|
| Brown/Mcafee |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Feast of Snakes |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Uklaw and Aktak |
The Watchman |
14 |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| The Organasm |
The Organ |
2 |
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12 |
|
| Voodoo Rooves |
Cathedral Mountain |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Organ Grinder |
The Organ |
2 |
II 5.9+ |
|
| Old Man of The Mountain |
East Temple |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Tree House of Horror |
Johnson Mountain |
12 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Kung Fu Fighter |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+/11- |
|
| Cat Hole |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| The Silverback |
Temple of Sinewava |
7 |
IV 5.12d |
|
| Negative Ghostrider |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Equinox |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Pie For Dinner |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Lap Dance |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11- |
|
| Ball and Chain |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.12d A0 |
|
| Chastity Crack |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| The Sand Teton |
Bridge Mountain |
10 |
IV/V 5.11- A0 |
|
| Cindy Loohoo |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Right Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
5 |
III 5.10- |
|
| Central Pillar |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Mojo Risin |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Smash Mouth |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
III 5.11+ |
|
| Cowboy Coffee |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
|
|
| Party, Variation to Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
|
|
| Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2 |
|
| Gatekeeper Crack |
Gatekeeper Wall |
6 |
V 5.10 C2 |
|
| Mortal Combat |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Golden Gate |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Hue and Cry |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10+/11- |
|
| Rites of Passage |
Red Arch Mountain |
9 |
IV 5.11+ |
|
| Up |
The Spearhead |
6 |
IV/V 5.12 |
|
| Take Back the Rainbow |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Theatre Goddess |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Plan B |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| The Pulpette |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Voice From The Dust |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III 5.11 |
|
| Riddlers Delight |
Carbuncle Buttress |
8 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Gypsys Curse |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Made to be Broken |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10d |
|
| Collard Greens and Chicken Wings |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11+ |
|
| Sandblaster |
Mt. Spry |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| The Vigil |
The Watchman |
10 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Swamp Donkey |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11- A0 |
|
| Mean High Tide |
Cerberus Gendarme |
6 |
III/IV 5.10+ |
|
| Blood Sport |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| The Monkeys Always Send Dude |
Temple of Sinewava |
9 |
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope) |
|
| Excedrin |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10a |
|
| Locksmith Dihedral |
Gatekeeper Wall |
7 |
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1 |
|
| The Oxbow Incident |
The Organ |
7 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| South Ridge |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.9+R |
|
| Cheyenne Social Club |
The Organ |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Omaha Bob |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Parlay |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 A0 |
|
| Sweep the Leg Johnny |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2 |
|
| Another Roadside Attraction |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
9 |
IV 5.10 A1 |
|
| Immaculate Conception |
Three Marys |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| North Ridge |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
12 |
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves |
|
| The Man Eater |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
III 5.10+ C1 |
|
| Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney |
Three Marys |
6 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Reach Around |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| Picking on the Fat Kid |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
6 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Gettin’ Western |
West Temple |
18 |
V 5.11 |
|
| 420 Crack |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Mythical Kings and Iguanas |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Hello Mary Lou |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
|
| Boring Crack |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Dances With Zully |
Mt. Spry |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Krunk Juice |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
5.12+ |
|
| Bits and Pieces |
Red Arch Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 |
|
| Migraine |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Force Boyle |
Johnson Mountain |
8 |
IV 5.11 A0 |
|
| Never Again |
Headache Area, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Final Seconds |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
II 5.9 |
|
| Better Safe Than Sorry |
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain |
4 |
I 5.8 or II 5.10+ |
|
| Cave Dweller |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10 |
|
| North Ridge, Watchman |
The Watchman |
N/A |
IV 5.10 A0 |
|
| S and M |
The Watchman |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| The Great Beyond |
Weeping Rock |
8 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Varco Route |
Mt. Moroni |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Fails of Power |
Cerberus Gendarme |
2 |
I 5.11 |
|
| Schnaggle Tooth |
East Temple |
9 |
III 5.10 R |
|
| Quanto Questo |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.12 |
|
| Cradle to the Grave |
The Watchman |
10 |
V 5.11 C2 |
|
| Mojina |
Johnson Mountain |
6 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| The Holy Roller |
Mt. Spry |
5 |
III 5.11 |
|
| The Dark Tower |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Hans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10 |
|
| Central Pillar, Watchman Direct |
The Watchman |
14 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
|
| Molecules of Emotion |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
IV 5.12b |
|
| The Groper |
Mt. Moroni |
6 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Enter the Dragon |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.10+/11- |
|
| The Silmaril |
The Watchman |
6 |
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1 |
|
| Frans |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
|
| Risk Management |
Carbuncle Buttress |
5 |
III 5.10+/11- A0 |
|
| The Quarry |
Cerberus Gendarme |
8 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Ivory Coast |
The Watchman |
3 |
II 5.12- |
|
| Forced Issue |
Mt. Moroni |
9 |
III/IV 5.10+ R |
|
| Coconut Corner |
Cerberus Gendarme |
3 |
III 5.10+ |
|
| Left Toilet Crack |
Temple of Sinewava |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Strikes and Gutters |
The Watchman |
8 |
IV 5.10 C1 |
|
| George the Animal Steele |
Cerberus Gendarme |
4 |
II 5.10+ |
|
| Spicy Flakes |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Reggaetone |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.12a |
|
| Nut Smasher |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12c |
|
| Rabbi Jah |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| 10th Division |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.10+ |
|
| Hejira |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
IV 5.10 |
|
| Scandalous Hooker |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.11 |
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| Trabajando La Esquina |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II/III 5.10+ |
|
| Birthday Bash |
East Temple |
9 |
IV 5.12 |
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| Back and Black |
Beehives |
1 |
5.12 |
|
| Dropping Bombs |
Leaning Wall |
2 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Rub it Raw |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| The Hernia |
The Watchman |
10 |
III 5.11/11+ |
|
| Shadow Warrior |
Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Slow and Delirious |
G1 |
14 |
IV 5.11- |
|
| The Wisdom Tooth |
East Temple |
5 |
II 5.10 A0 |
|
| Unknown |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
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| More Than A Woman |
Three Marys |
5 |
III/IV 5.10 |
|
| The Greer |
Mt. Allgood |
5 |
III 5.10 |
|
| Cornback Rattler |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Southeast Ridge |
Angelino Wall |
11 |
5.11 C1 |
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| Master of Reality |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
5.12+ |
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| Unholy Matrimony |
G1 |
10 |
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-? |
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| Woods Route |
Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
II 5.11 |
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| Uncertain Fates |
East Temple |
9 |
IV/V 5.11 C1 |
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| The Brown Fairy |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
3 |
II 5.11 |
|
| Doppleganger |
Beehives |
1 |
5.10+ |
|
| Out of Wax |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
2 |
I 5.10 |
|
| H.C.N. |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
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| Unnamed |
Beehives |
1 |
5.11 |
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| Remnants of a Party |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
|
| You and You |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
4 |
II 5.10 |
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| I’N’I |
Cragmont, Tunnel Wall |
5 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Freeloader |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.12D |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur |
Mountain of The Sun |
10 |
III 5.7 |
|
| Tricks of the Trade |
Isaac |
18 |
V 5.10 C1+ |
|
| Free Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12a R |
|
| Road to Cumorah |
Mt. Moroni |
10 |
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1 |
|
| Desert Shield |
Desert Shield Area |
9 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.7 |
|
| Plumb Line |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.12 R |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.8 |
|
| Tatoween |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 |
|
| Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
III 5.7 |
|
| Southwest Ridge |
West Temple |
N/A |
III/IV 5.7 |
|
| Disco Inferno |
Desert Shield Area |
8 |
V 5.9 C2+ |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.6 |
|
| Jolly Green Jam Crack |
Mt. Kinesava |
N/A |
V 5.10 C1 |
|
| Megamahedral |
Minotaur Tower |
6 |
III/IV 5.11- |
|
| Lhasa |
Mt. Kinesava |
10 |
V 5.11 A0 |
|
| South Face |
Angels Landing |
3 |
II 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10 |
|
| Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.10+ |
|
| Hladick aka The Flake Route |
Mountain of The Sun |
1 |
I 5.9 |
|
| Cosmic Trauma |
Leaning Wall |
10 |
V 5.9 C3 |
|
| Prodigal Sun |
Angels Landing |
9 |
V 5.7 C2 |
|
| Northeast Buttress |
Angels Landing |
8 |
IV 5.10+ |
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