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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Friday, March 27, 2015 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating



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