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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Friday, August 22, 2014 

Print Book
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Format: Printed Guidebook
 
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Gettin Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
INI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Lowe Route Angels Landing
13
IV/V 5.13 or 5.9 C3
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Prodigal Sun Angels Landing
9
V 5.7 C2
4 Star Rating
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Led By Sheep Aries Butte
5
III 5.7
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4



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