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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Sunday, March 29, 2015 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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[ Thumbnails  | Text ]
Route Name Formation Review
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
Northeast Buttress Angels Landing
8
IV 5.10+
4 Star Rating
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
South Face Angels Landing
3
II 5.10
3 Star Rating
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Cat Hole Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Excedrin Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10a
The Man Eater Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.10+ C1
Boring Crack Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10+
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Hello Mary Lou Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Southeast Ridge Angelino Wall
11
5.11 C1
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Ball and Chain Angels Landing
9
V 5.12d A0
Angels Hair Angels Landing
11
V 5.13a
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
Unknown, Variation ot Ashtar Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.8
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Ashtar Command Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.9
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