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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Saturday, October 25, 2014 

Print Book
Price: $29.95
Format: Printed Guidebook
 
Downloadable eBook
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Format: Downloadable eBook (PDF)
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Zion Climbing: Free and Clean
Authors: Bryan Bird
Routes:  250 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 5.5-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 232 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2009

 


Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States.  Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune's Buttress
100 never-before published free climbs
25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion
First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (950K)

Zion Climbing Experts praise:
  “If you plan on visiting Zion for the first time, I highly recommend picking up a copy. It will greatly enrich your stay and ensure that you spend time on the rock rather than walking around looking for things that you can climb.”
- John McNamee, Mountain Project Read the full review

  “When we climbed in this sandstone mecca a couple years ago, we had a hard time plowing through the classic guidebooks in order to find routes without any aid climbing in them.”
- Guillaume Dargaud, Read the full review

  Bryan Bird, one of Zion's most accomplished hardmen, has produced a great collection of route information that provides plenty of leads to adventure in this magical spot.”
- John Middendorf, Big Wall Master and Gear Innovator
  “Finally, a book for Zion!! This is a must have book for planning your Zion big wall adventure.”
- Ammon McNeely, World's Most Accomplished Big Wall Speed Climber
  “SuperTopo offers a clear and concise format and sets the stage for your own adventure with history to each route.”
- Conrad Anker, World Renowned Climber and Mountaineer

  “After perusing Bryan Bird's new Zion Climbing: Free and Clean from Supertopo, I'm fully stoked for some all-free (or at least attempted all-free) return trips to southwestern Utah's stunning national park.”
- Dougald MacDonald, The Mountain World, Read the full review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of climbs, the SuperTopo for West Temple on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best climbing topo youve ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Cave Dweller Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10
Hejira Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
5
IV 5.10
Woods Route Ataxia Tower, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Cindy Loohoo Beehives
1
5.10
420 Crack Beehives
1
5.10
Parlay Beehives
1
5.11 A0
Collard Greens and Chicken Wings Beehives
1
5.11+
Hans Beehives
1
5.10
Frans Beehives
1
5.11
Nut Smasher Beehives
1
5.12c
Spicy Flakes Beehives
1
5.10+
Back and Black Beehives
1
5.12
Unknown Beehives
1
5.11
Unnamed Beehives
1
5.11
Doppleganger Beehives
1
5.10+
The Sand Teton Bridge Mountain
10
IV/V 5.11- A0
Made to be Broken Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10d
Riddlers Delight Carbuncle Buttress
8
III/IV 5.10
Risk Management Carbuncle Buttress
5
III 5.10+/11- A0
Coke Explosion Cathedral Mountain
4
III 5.10
Voodoo Rooves Cathedral Mountain
5
III 5.10
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
N/A
IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b
Cave Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
5.7
Cynthia's Hand Job Cerberus Gendarme
2
II 5.10
Cherry Crack Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.10
Mean High Tide Cerberus Gendarme
6
III/IV 5.10+
Fails of Power Cerberus Gendarme
2
I 5.11
Coconut Corner Cerberus Gendarme
3
III 5.10+
The Quarry Cerberus Gendarme
8
IV 5.10
George the Animal Steele Cerberus Gendarme
4
II 5.10+
G-String Divas Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Brown/Mcafee Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
Cock Smasher Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
I 5.10
Feast of Snakes Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
III 5.11
POW, Right in the Rat Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Lap Dance Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11-
Trabajando La Esquina Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.10+
The Gypsys Curse Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Omaha Bob Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Picking on the Fat Kid Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
6
II 5.10+
Another Roadside Attraction Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
9
IV 5.10 A1
Rub it Raw Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10
Krunk Juice Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
5.12+
Quanto Questo Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.12
Reggaetone Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.12a
Cornback Rattler Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.11
Scandalous Hooker Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II/III 5.11
Master of Reality Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
5.12+
The Brown Fairy Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
Out of Wax Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
H.C.N. Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
1
I 5.10+
IíNíI Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
5
II 5.10
Remnants of a Party Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
You and You Cragmont, Tunnel Wall
4
II 5.10
Desert Shield Desert Shield Area
9
V 5.9 C3
3 Star Rating
Disco Inferno Desert Shield Area
8
V 5.9 C2+
3 Star Rating
Tooele Tower Eagle Crags
3
III 5.9+
Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall East Temple
8
IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1
Fang Spire East Temple
6
IV 5.9 C3
Old Man of The Mountain East Temple
6
III 5.10
Freezer Burn AKA Free or Burn East Temple
9
IV 5.11+ or 5.10 A2
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion East Temple
9
IV 5.11- R or 5.10+ C2
Schnaggle Tooth East Temple
9
III 5.10 R
10th Division East Temple
9
IV 5.10+
Birthday Bash East Temple
9
IV 5.12
The Wisdom Tooth East Temple
5
II 5.10 A0
Uncertain Fates East Temple
9
IV/V 5.11 C1
Checkerboard Mesa, Wheat Chex East Zion
6
II 5.6/5.7
The Reach Around G1
14
IV 5.11-
Unholy Matrimony G1
10
III 5.11 C1 or 5.12-?
Slow and Delirious G1
14
IV 5.11-
Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall
6
V 5.10 C2
Locksmith Dihedral Gatekeeper Wall
7
IV 5.12a or 5.11+ C1
Globe Boulder Globe Boulder
N/A
VB/0-V5/6
Master Blaster Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.13+ or 5.8 C1
The Headache Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Cowboy Coffee Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
Never Again Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
1
II 5.10
Migraine Headache Area, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.11
Freeloader Isaac
18
V 5.12D
3 Star Rating
Tricks of the Trade Isaac
18
V 5.10 C1+
3 Star Rating
Iron Like a Lion In Zion Isaac
16
IV/V 5.11b/c
Scramble Route Johnson Mountain
N/A
IV 4th class
Tree House of Horror Johnson Mountain
12
IV 5.11
Mojo Risin Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 or 5.10 C1
Force Boyle Johnson Mountain
8
IV 5.11 A0
Mojina Johnson Mountain
6
IV 5.10+
Kung Pow Kitty Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.11
Micro Chuck Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.8
Bruce Lee Memorial Crack Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
1
5.10
Kung Fu Fighter Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+/11-
Mortal Combat Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10
Blood Sport Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.10+
Sweep the Leg Johnny Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
I 5.10
Enter the Dragon Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
2
II 5.10+/11-
The Dark Tower Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10+
Shadow Warrior Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
4
III 5.10
Rabbi Jah Kung Fu Theatre, Tunnel Wall
3
II 5.11
North Spur Chimney Sweep Lady Mountain
7
III 5.7 or 5.10
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
9
IV 5.6 C2 or 5.13
Cosmic Trauma Leaning Wall
10
V 5.9 C3
Equinox Leaning Wall
10
IV 5.10
Dropping Bombs Leaning Wall
2
II 5.10
Megamahedral Minotaur Tower
6
III/IV 5.11-
3 Star Rating
Lunar Ecstasy Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV/V 5.10 C2
Sheer Lunacy Moonlight Buttress Area
7
IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12+ or 5.13
Swoop Gimp or be Dust Moonlight Buttress Area
10
V 5.9 C3
Moonlight Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area
9
IV 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur Mountain of The Sun
10
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Casual Sex Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.7
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknown Hand Crack Right Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Snake in the Crack Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.8
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Chimney Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.6
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs Unknwn Lft Facing Corner Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Hand Crack Left Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10
3 Star Rating
Practice Cliffs, Unknown Roof to Hands Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.10+
3 Star Rating
Hladick aka The Flake Route Mountain of The Sun
1
I 5.9
3 Star Rating
Final Seconds Mt. Allgood
5
II 5.9
The Greer Mt. Allgood
5
III 5.10
Plumb Line Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12 R
3 Star Rating
Free Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.12a R
3 Star Rating
Tatoween Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11
3 Star Rating
Cowboy Ridge (AKA Southwest RIdge) Mt. Kinesava
N/A
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lhasa Mt. Kinesava
10
V 5.11 A0
3 Star Rating
Jolly Green Jam Crack Mt. Kinesava
N/A
V 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Crack in the Cosmic Egg Mt. Moroni
9
V 5.8 C2
Road to Cumorah Mt. Moroni
10
IV 5.11 A1 or 5.10 C1
3 Star Rating
Plan B Mt. Moroni
9
IV 5.12b
Voice From The Dust Mt. Moroni
9
III 5.11
Varco Route Mt. Moroni
2
II 5.11
Molecules of Emotion Mt. Moroni
6
IV 5.12b
The Groper Mt. Moroni
6
III 5.10+
Forced Issue Mt. Moroni
9
III/IV 5.10+ R
Central Pillar Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.10
Swamp Donkey Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11- A0
South Ridge Mt. Spry
5
III 5.9+R
Dances With Zully Mt. Spry
6
III 5.10+
Sandblaster Mt. Spry
8
IV 5.11
The Holy Roller Mt. Spry
5
III 5.11
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
8
III/IV 5.11
Wigs in Space Red Arch Mountain
7
IV 5.11 or 5.9 A1
Rites of Passage Red Arch Mountain
9
IV 5.11+
Bits and Pieces Red Arch Mountain
8
IV 5.11
Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
IV 5.10
Smash Mouth Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
III 5.11+
Take Back the Rainbow Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
8
III 5.10
Party, Variation to Golden Gate Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
North Ridge Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
12
III/IV 5.10 C1, 10 aid moves
Better Safe Than Sorry Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain
4
I 5.8 or II 5.10+
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.12b
The Pulpit Temple of Sinewava
2
II 5.11 or 5.9 C2+
Freak Show Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12
The Silverback Temple of Sinewava
7
IV 5.12d
Right Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
5
III 5.10-
The Pulpette Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.9
The Monkeys Always Send Dude Temple of Sinewava
9
IV 5.11+R C2 or 5.12 (toprope)
Left Toilet Crack Temple of Sinewava
1
I 5.10
10 Percent The Organ
5
III 5.9
The Organasm The Organ
2
II/III 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Organ Grinder The Organ
2
II 5.9+
The Oxbow Incident The Organ
7
II/III 5.10
Cheyenne Social Club The Organ
5
III 5.10
Iron Messiah The Spearhead
6
III/IV 5.10
Up The Spearhead
6
IV/V 5.12
Uklaw and Aktak The Watchman
14
V 5.10 C1
North Ridge, Watchman The Watchman
N/A
IV 5.10 A0
Negative Ghostrider The Watchman
8
IV 5.11-
Chastity Crack The Watchman
3
II 5.11
Pie For Dinner The Watchman
14
IV 5.10
Hue and Cry The Watchman
8
IV 5.10+/11-
The Vigil The Watchman
10
IV 5.11
The Silmaril The Watchman
6
IV 5.12 or 5.10 A1
Mythical Kings and Iguanas The Watchman
6
III 5.10
S and M The Watchman
6
III 5.10+
Central Pillar, Watchman Direct The Watchman
14
IV/V 5.11 C1
Ivory Coast The Watchman
3
II 5.12-
Cradle to the Grave The Watchman
10
V 5.11 C2
The Hernia The Watchman
10
III 5.11/11+
Strikes and Gutters The Watchman
8
IV 5.10 C1
Gentlemans Agreement Three Marys
9
IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1
Theatre Goddess Three Marys
6
III 5.10
Southwest Face, C.T. Chimney Three Marys
6
III/IV 5.10
More Than A Woman Three Marys
5
III/IV 5.10
Immaculate Conception Three Marys
6
III 5.10+
South Face Twin Brothers
N/A
III 5.5
Weeping Rock Chimneys Weeping Rock
3
II 5.7
The Great Beyond Weeping Rock
8
III 5.10
The Big Lebowski West Temple
21
IV/V 5.11a/b
Southwest Ridge West Temple
N/A
III/IV 5.7
3 Star Rating
Gettiní Western West Temple
18
V 5.11
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