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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge III 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III 5.9-, Paisano Pinnacle

Paisano Pinnacle West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.9-
5 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner III 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Corner
III 5.9+, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - East Face IV 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
IV 5.9+, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower East Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
9
IV 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - The Girl Next Door II 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Girl Next Door
II 5.9-, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell The Girl Next Door
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.9-
3 Star Rating
Northwest Face
II+ 5.9, Liberty Bell


Photo:
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.9
3 Star Rating
Big Kangaroo - Beckey-Tate III 5.9 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Beckey-Tate
III 5.9, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
7
III 5.9
3 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Rib III 5.8  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Rib
III 5.8 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.8
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Liberty Traverse V 5.8-5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Traverse
V 5.8-5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

Less traveled section between Lexington and N.E.W.S. Rappel at far end of ledge in middle of photo.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
24
V 5.8-5.11a
5 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress III+ 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Buttress
III+ 5.8, Cutthroat Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
12
III+ 5.8
4 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Rapple Grapple II 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rapple Grapple
II 5.8+, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Rapple Grapple
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - North Face III 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
III 5.8+, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
4
III 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Tunnel Route II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tunnel Route
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower Tunnel Route
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Kangaroo Temple - South Face III 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
III 5.8, Kangaroo Temple

Ian Nicholson leading Pitch 1 on the South Face of Kangaroo Temple.
Photo:Rebecca Schroeder
Kangaroo Temple
7
III 5.8
1 Star Rating
Concord Tower - North Face Directismo II 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face Directismo
II 5.8+, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Patriot Cracks II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Patriot Cracks
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
4
II 5.8
2 Star Rating
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