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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rebel Yell
III 5.10b, Chianti Spire

Chianti Spire Rebel Yell
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Chianti Spire
7
III 5.10b
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Hitchhiker
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Early Winter Couloir III AI2-3 and M4+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Early Winter Couloir
III AI2-3 and M4+, North Early Winters Spire

Early Winters Couloir from the east
Photo:Steph Abegg
North Early Winters Spire
6
III AI2-3 and M4+
4 Star Rating
Whine Spire - Gato Negro IV+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Gato Negro
IV+ 5.10d, Whine Spire

Whine Spire Gato Negro
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Whine Spire
12
IV+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Southern Man IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Southern Man
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1, South Early Winters Spire

Joel Kauffman launching into the unknown during the first ascent of The Southern Man
Photo:Mark Allen
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - Rampage III 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rampage
III 5.10d, Paisano Pinnacle

The North Face of Paisano Pinnacle.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.10d
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider V 5.10d or 5.11b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom Rider
V 5.10d or 5.11b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom Rider
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10d or 5.11b
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Remsberg Variation II+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Remsberg Variation
II+ 5.10d, Liberty Bell

Dale Remsberg nearly 20 years after making the first ascent. Now Technical Director of the AMGA.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Flycatcher Buttress IV 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Flycatcher Buttress
IV 5.10b, North Early Winters Spire

The East Buttress’s of South and North Early Winters
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
11
IV 5.10b
3 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Action Potential III 5.10c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Action Potential
III 5.10c, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Action Potential
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
8
III 5.10c
3 Star Rating
Big Kangaroo - Kearney-Thomas III 5.11b or 5.10b C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Kearney-Thomas
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
8
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1
4 Star Rating
Minuteman Tower - East Face III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
III 5.10b, Minuteman Tower

Minuteman Tower East Face
Photo:Mark Allen
Minuteman Tower
6
III 5.10b
3 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack 5.9 C2 or 5.13b - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Crack
5.9 C2 or 5.13b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Liberty Crack
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
5.9 C2 or 5.13b
5 Star Rating
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