Reed's Direct?

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tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Aug 4, 2010 - 01:21am PT
2009, Led P1, struggled up P2, and decided to pass on P3...here I am struggling on P2


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 14, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
I like that big Happy Face, TuolumneTradster!^^^^

In 1986 I climbed with Kelly Laakso. We climbed only the first two pitches of the 3D and called it a day.

I led them both, I think. The first is one of my all-time favorite pitches.

This was the one and only time that I led P2.

I shot these last June from the road.
Reed's Direct P2.
Reed's Direct P2.
Credit: mouse from merced
Reed's Direct P2 crux and base of P3.
Reed's Direct P2 crux and base of P3.
Credit: mouse from merced
Reed's Direct P3.
Reed's Direct P3.
Credit: mouse from merced

I haven't a shot of P1 as I was just passin' thru.

I didn't want to hike to the base and there were no vantage points from the road for the trees.

Trees in the way of a shot is known as 'Tom Evans Syndrome.'

Reed's Direct P3.  Bombs away!
Reed's Direct P3. Bombs away!
Credit: mouse from merced
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 14, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
Did it again last year....the last pitch is classic!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Aug 14, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
Did you think it was about the same difficulty as the 2nd pitch?
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 14, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
Last time I did it, I think I led all 3 pitches in about 2011 or 2012 or so. P3 is definitely a step up from P2. In the beginning, it is not too hard but scary because of potential fall into the abyss with crappy/no pro. I remember applying way more pressure than necessary on the back/knee moves out of fear, and then getting out of that to a stem and transition to just the one wall was committing. Then at the top it gets more technical than anything on P2, but fortunately the pro is good at that point.

Edit: I thought I found a picture of it, but this doesn't look quite right... if this is not P3 of Reed's Direct, what is this? Could it be something like Harding Chimney at Sugarloaf?

Credit: NutAgain!
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