Reed's Direct?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 65 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Nov 3, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
"Are you sure that's not the Weasel Route, Karl"

Probably is, Deer is just a name we came up with because it's Reed in reverse.

For mortal types with fortitude, it's fun to do that final pitch so you can throw a rope down the left side without having to sack up for yet another knarly lead.

I think left side in is the ticket cause there's a shallow crack out left to push on with your right foot if you go that way.

Peace

Karl

Richard on Reeds
Richard on Reeds
Credit: Karl Baba
OR

Trad climber
So.VT.
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
One of my fav's. I did the whole thing with that nut Mr.Way in like 1993. Does that guy still exists? If so does he still hang out in the Valley?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
Have done it maybe 4 or 5 times, topped out all but once, led that last pitch a couple times.

First time on it, about a 5.9+ max guy at the time, no gear bigger than a 3.5 camalot. I was sucked too deep in the flare at the crux and couldn't stem to the seam on the right, so grabbed a little micro-chip on the wall to crimp to let me slide over more to the outside. Chip busted off, headfirst/backwards dive for about 20'. Got back up there and stayed farther out, felt miles easier.

I don't like the p2 either. Looks nice, but it's just physical, not really engaging.
Weenis

Trad climber
Tel Aviv
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
Pete Weenis @ Reeds, second pitch 1979
Pete Weenis @ Reeds, second pitch 1979
Credit: Weenis
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
On a hot summer day in the early 70s, I was cooling my heels waiting for my party to lead the second pitch. I wasn't belaying, and I was bored.

On a whim, I started chimney climbing the slab. The standard trick, as noted, is try to push your hand out and scare the crap out of someone on the 'right' side of the rock. However, rather than stay close to the crack, I angled up toward the base of the last pitch. I figured I could always chimney down if it got too narrow.

It is long, dark, and at places tight. I came out in the spacious tunnel that connects the right and left sides of the last pitch. I also have to go sideways at different places and work around chock stones. I found old slings on the tops of some of chockstones that had fallen off as someone chimneyed through the tunnel at the base of the last pitch.

There was enough light to dimly make out the chockstones. A headlight would be useful, but a helmet would definitely limit your progress. I don't think you could fall out, so the only reason to trail a rope is so that someone can find your decaying body.

I cannot say that I recommend this as a climb, but if you wiggle up inside Reeds, and meet your party on the main ledge, you will never be afraid of getting stuck in one of Harding's horror shows.

Karl, I know that we have discussed this before, but I don't remember the outcome: when you climbed DEER did you exist somewhere on the main ledge? Is there another way out the top besides the tunnel behind the last pitch?

I don't remember ever climbing the last pitch.
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Nov 3, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
The other day I started on the Left, and after the easy climbing to gain the chimney, proceeded up, over and down to the top of the first pitch of
the Direct. It gets dark in there, all right.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Nov 3, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
Probably early 80s, but only the first two pitches. I know this is considered blasphemy, but I always thought that second pitch was overrated.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 3, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
By Godfrey, i guess I better get the whiteout. Herbs said it counts, I should have insisted on grinding P3.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
scuffy topping out sans big peice- diligent belayer/photographers some...
scuffy topping out sans big peice- diligent belayer/photographers sometimes lop off heads.....
Credit: Jaybro
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 3, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
Scuffy's a badass....
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Nov 3, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
not so. The pitch is very well protected.
MH2

climber
Nov 3, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
Poor little famous roadside climb.

I'm sure I would have really dug it if its reputation had not preceded it.

The other guy had done the direct finish, so he squeezed through to the other side but scraped his camera off in the process, necessitating a visit to the Left Side, next. When we walked up to that thing my veneer of condescension peeled off.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
Scuffy, if you're in Josh this year we should do some routes. Eat turkey, climb, etc....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Just checked Google Earth - The Fringe is visible from outer space, Reed's Direct less so.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
The Lunatic Fringe can be heard from space, too!
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
OK, I've never done last pitch. But some of you guys say its NTB. ? How would it compare to left side of Moby Dick for example(which I've done and didn't like - ha), just for comparison.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
Left Side of Moby Dick is long but has no one move very difficult,
more of an endurance, with a lot of variety of chimney, stem, squeeze
things. The Right Side of Reeds is much more advanced, in terms of
being an off-width and requiring some true Yosemite crack technique,
it seems. Both, I guess, are 5.10, but I always though Righ Side was
more difficult.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
Left Side of Moby Dick was rated 5.9 originally, and I always thought it was an enjoyable, well protected pitch, in spite of its intimidating appearance from the base.

One of those Valley pitches that rewards the climber who leaves the security of the back of the flare, and uses the wide stemming options, kinda like the flares on Hot Line, The Right Side of the Worst Error, or The Northeast Buttress.

You sound like you're feeling better Pat, I hope so.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2009 - 01:07am PT
Scuffy IS badass!!!111
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
2nd pitch is crux, by a mile! At least....
Messages 41 - 60 of total 65 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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