Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
|
|
OK, at Roy's suggestion, and by request from Jim H, who apparently loves the old photos.
Tar: note natty hat.
Yikes! - Another natty hat.
The first page specifically on Preuss.
The man himself, lower right.
Dulfer, being Dulfery.
So if this is readable, maybe I'll do the other 11 pages in a few days.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 09:44am PT
|
COOL! Thanks Anders, yes, that is definitely more readable.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 11:40am PT
|
What the hell is up with Dulfer's snazzy outfit and that KILLER mohawk?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
|
|
I'll try to get the rest up in the next few days. Takes time. Busy.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Here are some pages from Doug Scott's book Big Wall Climbing that feature either comments about Paul Preuss, or provide relevant background. The book itself is terrific. Its instructional sections may be long out of date now, but the history... Wow. You want the historical context for big wall climbing, this is where you can get it.
Since I've never tried to post scanned book pages to ST before, I'm not sure how well these will work. If they're too hard to read, I can always pull them and try again.
First, here's the man himself. This was taken in (I think) 1991 -- I was in England because my novel Vortex had been shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker prize and I wound up rambling around the country with Ken Wilson. We climbed with Doug at the sea cliffs of Swanage. He'd have been around 50 then.
Okay, now for the pages from the book
Okay, there it is. Let me know if these pages are readable.
David
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
|
Wow, this is too fun.
Thanks for posting those David. Yes, they're readable enough. Funny how everyone used the same picture of Preuss and Dulfer. Just didn't have the same "image" potential that everyone has now. We're nobodys, and we all have tons of pix of ourselves.....
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
And you saved me the trouble of digging up that cartoon of Hermann von Barth! Thanks!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
|
|
Do I still need to post the second half from Mountain? I haven't actually read it, and but believe it was more or less an excerpt from the book.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2009 - 11:06am PT
|
Anders, you bet, bring it on if you like.
Campanile Basso
Preuss first ascent, grade V, unroped, 1911
is route H
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
|
Finally back at it. I wonder how much of an audience there is?
From Mountain 34, April 1974. This time I scanned at fairly high resolution, then loaded them directly to SuperTopo, and let it decide the resolution/file size. Seems readable, though a bit smaller than doing it via PhotoBucket.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
|
Wow, I like that!
Now there's a guy I never knew as much about. I read a fair amount about him about a bazillion years ago, but have forgotten it all....
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2009 - 12:56am PT
|
looks to me like Herr Dulfer doesn't know how to do a proper Dulfersitz rappel.
|
|
aguacaliente
climber
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
|
Is Dulfer doing a traverse in that picture? That's what I thought the caption meant, but it could also be a staged pic.
This is great stuff. I made a brief trip through the Dolomites region a little while ago and hiked to within sight of the Zsigmondy-Comici hut,
http://www.zsigmondyhuette.com/ , though we had to turn back for darkness. It is cool to read about the pioneers it was named for. Even just for hiking, the scenery is amazing.
The hut is on the right skyline just where it intersects the Zwolfer Kofel in the background.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
|
Anders- Since I know that you have the 1972 Ascent that I can't locate at the moment. Please post the Comici article Alone on Cima Grande. Totally classic! This thread is a keeper.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
|
OK, but first, here's the second half of the article from Mountain 34 - the second part of Scott's opus. Although no one asked about it. It appears that what was in Mountain and what was in Big Walls was much the same if not identical.
It's definitely faster to scan things at higher resolution (~ 1 MB file size), then use the SuperTopo photouploader - though it takes a while to resize things. The trouble being that you lose some resolution as compared to downsizing the files to ~ 100/200 KB, getting them on PhotoBucket, then posting the hotlinks.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2009 - 02:17am PT
|
And here is the article by Emilio Comici, from Ascent 1972.
Alone on the Cima Grande (di Lavaredo)
And a biography of Comici, interspersed with bios of longhairs with long sideburns.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2009 - 02:19am PT
|
Randisi, Thanks so much!
I will digest this a bit more later...
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
Thanks alot Randisi, great stuff--keep it coming if you can.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Anders sets the stage and Randisi delivers!
This is the whole show in a nutshell:
"...rather that primary security, which with every climber should be based in the correct estimation of his ability in relation to his desire."
Keep up with the details all; fond and fascinating stuff.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
|
Wow, what a cool story. Thanks again Randisi.
I ain't even gonna think about doing pull ups on inverted glasses.
That sounds like a good way to get my fahtahhss cut!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!