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Eric Chisholm

Trad climber
Sebastopol, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 19, 2005 - 12:26am PT
I am corious how mamy people read "Accidents in North American Mountaineering".

If you do, how often do you learn any thing from it?

I read it. And more than once I have learned that a lot of accedents are human error, and some time it just all goes wrong.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 19, 2005 - 12:33am PT
I usually get it as a christmas present from my wife and spend all day reading it... I use them (I have all back into the '80's) whenever I am going on a trip to a new place, just to see what happened. They are an invaluable resource.

Some sobbering analyses, one I remember of an accident on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton bascially said that the climbers did everything right, but were in the wrong spot at the wrong time... reality check big time.

Of course, there are some weird off color humorous reports, like the accident that occured when a climber was using an empty Foster's beer can for a pee bottle... apparently you can bleed a lot....
jbaker

Trad climber
Takoma Park, MD
Sep 19, 2005 - 10:58am PT
On the Foster's theme: there was the ANAM report of the guy whose last words were, "Foster's, it's courage in a can."

A while back, Chessler's was clearing out old ANAM's cheap.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Sep 19, 2005 - 11:08am PT

"Ed, do you know how to ge back issues. I don't think I have read one since 2000 or so.
Would like to catch up a bit. "



amazon.com has them back a few years.

i have them back to the early 90's. ANAM is definitley a great resource of useful and potentialy lifesaving information. entertaining at times as well.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 19, 2005 - 11:12am PT
I'm not sure where to get back issues... the American Alpine Club publishes them... perhaps they may know. I'm not a member of the AAC, but if they made their past publications available on the web I'd seriously consider joining... but as is their character, they're about a decade or two behind the times.

Anyone on the AAC executive committee reading this??
Andrew

Trad climber
Marin
Sep 19, 2005 - 11:40am PT
http://cgi.ebay.com/Accidents-North-American-Mountaineering-Rock-Climbing_W0QQitemZ4571782994QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Accidents-in-North-American-Mountaineering-1997-Iss_W0QQitemZ4569802095QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ebay has a few. They're fairly cheap too, $3-5 not including shipping.

I read these all the time. I find they get me super paranoid and they make me constantly struggle with the helmet/no helmet debate.

http://www.mountaineersbooks.org has a few too.
http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/showproducts.cfm?FullCat=5

jbaker

Trad climber
Takoma Park, MD
Sep 19, 2005 - 11:52am PT
I just took a look at Chessler's. (chesslerbooks.com). They've got almost all back issues to 1948, most for $5 or $10. They occasionally put them on sale. I got a bunch for $1-2 a few years ago.
Eric Chisholm

Trad climber
Sebastopol, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2005 - 11:59am PT
Yea, I get super safe after I read them.

One of the reviews was about a party that was repeling and eather failed to tie the two ropes to gether or the knot was tied incoredtly.... The one repelling was out of sight of his partner. They found his body with about for feet of rope above his device. Must be a horable fealing to lean back and not have the rig come tight!

I alwas load my anchors befor I put comit to them.

I getting all freaket out about it just sitting here.
rico

Trad climber
sf
Sep 19, 2005 - 12:12pm PT
i put in a request at the main branch SF library to carry them. they got em all within a couple of months.
ps...although some are very antiseptic accounts, there are a few gems that would indicate a sense of humor on the authors' end.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Sep 19, 2005 - 05:12pm PT
Yea, I get super safe after I read them.

This is why I stopped reading them decades ago.
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Sep 19, 2005 - 05:32pm PT
Who is the primary editor for that publication these days?
Paele

climber
Sep 19, 2005 - 06:52pm PT
I read them. A number of the reports I've read have left quite an impression on me. Great learning tool.
James

Social climber
The Climber's Subconcious
Sep 19, 2005 - 07:54pm PT
Never have never will
CAMNOTCLIMB

Trad climber
novato ca
Sep 20, 2005 - 12:32am PT
Yeah, I read them, get scared, then bone up on every self-rescue book I can find.
Nepal Planet Treks

Sport climber
Nepal
Dec 13, 2018 - 02:21am PT
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Day 10: Gorak Shep – Firiche ( 4283m)
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• Alcoholic, hot and cold drinks
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mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 13, 2018 - 02:27am PT
"non sequiturs in Asian mountaineering"
ron gomez

Trad climber
Dec 13, 2018 - 08:55am PT
What’s with the advertisment about Everest? Every climbers dream? Not so much anymore, can you even climb that without having a guide? Crowds and pollution would turn me away, unless it was on a less crowded side.
Peace
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 13, 2018 - 10:03am PT
No, thats the Nepalese side.

I doubt he'll drum up much biz from the taco.

ANAM is a potentially useful tool for education. People should understand that often it is a series of bad decisions that cause tragic events.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 13, 2018 - 10:19am PT
Just ran across this thread and went to look at my collection. I have !955, 1957, and every issue from 1961 through 2017. I'm 86 years old now and don't think my heirs are interested, so my climbing library is up for sale.
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