Scuffy Say - "The ideal size crack is about this big..."

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2009 - 12:03am PT

Substituting a new Scuffy image from jaybro's stash







Photo by Alexander

Pate

Mountain climber
MILF Island
Oct 24, 2009 - 12:06am PT
Chop that down in half, then in half again and I'll start to agree.
T H

climber
. . . not !
Oct 24, 2009 - 01:10am PT
"For an erection lasting more than 4 hours, consult a physician . . ."
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 24, 2009 - 02:12am PT
Excerpt from the Excel sheets for Sedona:

West Sedona, Coffee Pot Rock Area, Spout Route, **, 5.11, gear to: many 4.5", anchors, 300/3p, East, F/W/SP, Mattson/T. Coats 1995. 2 pitches of loose (5.7) to the excellent off-width/layback in a stunning corner. Repeated only by the First Ascentionist.

A perfect 100-150? foot 4.5" dihedral

Go get it!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 24, 2009 - 02:20am PT
that Scuff has been called on this before.
just sayin'.....
Credit: Jaybro



,relax....
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 24, 2009 - 02:25am PT
Man, that was a great day out with you guys...the sound effects were brilliant! 8O
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 24, 2009 - 02:39am PT
Wish youse had been there last night....
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Oct 24, 2009 - 07:34am PT
This may come as a surprise to a few of you but Scuffy plays a mean set of ivories too




BUT WHAT IS A SCUFFY THREAD WITHOUT THE DREADED MIDDLE AGED ASS SHOT!!!111



Love ya brother

DMT
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 24, 2009 - 10:36am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#132233
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
Oct 24, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
Sorry, this is off topic but that t-shirt looked familiar. Scuffy were you on that crew?

Credit: Trad Muenter
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Oct 24, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
I grew up in the Tennessee Valley.

DMT
Pate

Mountain climber
MILF Island
Oct 24, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
How does one make a t-shirt last over 20 years?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 24, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
That Is a cool shirt, I commented insightfully at the time, "cool shirt"
Scuffy has magic. there is a 'poodle with a Mohawk' shirt in his collection.
Does he really play piano? I had no idea, but find it easy to believe. We gotta get him and the Colonel to do duets; call them 'Col. Smooth'. Maybe raise money for something.
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
Oct 24, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
The "Tennessee Valley" on the shirt is in the GGNRA (Marin Headlands). (Hope I didn't just get trolled.)

http://www.nps.gov/goga/planyourvisit/tennessee_valley.htm

How does one make a t-shirt last over 20 years?

That's what *I* was wondering about Scuffy's shirt! In my case, it was merely a result of having been stuffed away in a box with a bunch of other old t-shirts I guess I didn't want to donate or use to wash the car.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Oct 25, 2009 - 08:06am PT
Mr Smooth never drags his body up the Stone Steep Grade. If ya never touches the rock ya never harms the shirt.

True

I'm a shredah!

DMT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 25, 2009 - 09:23am PT
"I'm a shredah!"

Ya Toshye! (me too)

One time in an Odub binge in Vedauwoo, I had a T-shirt / rugby shirt combo, glued together to me through massively bleeding gobies on my right Scapula.

those were the days...
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 25, 2009 - 11:47am PT
Nice visual to wake up to Jay - sheesh!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 25, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
Well, then Lucille was Left side in, same trip. I had a fresh shoulder and didn't have to change....
..
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Oct 26, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
When I saw the shirt I knew I would still want it years later.
The artwork was by my friend Kalen Meyer.
I don't wear it much, but even so, I think it was just a tough shirt to
last 22 years.
I gave my father one as well, that's like money in the bank. It's probably
in like-new condition.

I got three of the Hollow Flake shirts, and I feel I ought to get a few
more. That's a shirt whose aesthetics is really going to stand the test of
time.

I wasn't actually on that trail maintenance day--no need to try to figure
out which worker I was.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
The perfect crack size, hmmm....any crack that is not anatomically incorrect. Guy's looking for the perfect climber girlfriend, make sure she has green camalot sized hands, nothing else really matters.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 26, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
"Big hands,
I know she's the one,'
-Let me go Wild, Violent Femmes
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 26, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
I guess his taste for perfect crack size changes over time:
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Oct 26, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
scuffy b,

Wore my 1983 CA Bouldering Championships T-shirt yesterday. I'm sure you've found the secret....(shhhh, it's all in the laundering.) LoL, lynnie

Yo, what's up with the rope in the fire pit in the last picture ? Jess asking. :D
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Oct 26, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
Incentive. Desire. Insouciance
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 26, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Lynne, you wouldn't believe it, or maybe you would.
Credit: Jaybro

and, add to scuffy's list, Grace

Credit: Jaybro

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Oct 26, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
Beautiful Blue Shoes.....crazy mon wearing said shoes.
Had to look up Insouciance in Webbies.....haven't used that word in awhile. Smiles, lynne learning.

Edit: thinking you No Calers are a bit on the crazy side....but to be sure I'd better come up and check it out. I can certify you one way or the other. :DD
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 26, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
I could save you the trouble. Though the real fun of the evalution is collecting the data...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Oct 26, 2009 - 10:20pm PT
I currently have an MBA in data collection.....so looks like I have my next job lined up. :))

Noted numerous beer bottles around area. I am also in waste collection management. I throw down the full ones....hehehe
MH2

climber
Oct 26, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
Say, MrE, a week ago I wouldn't have recognized that route.

It has a nice variety of sizes.

Including the ideal, for energy saving purposes, hand size.
Credit: MH2

MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 26, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
Jaybro: The outpatients are out in force, no? ;)
FredC

Boulder climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 26, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
Jaybro,

I hope you rescued this poor guy. I looks like he got totally stuck upside down. Man, this looks pretty bad, all the blood going to his head and all. This guy looks kind of familiar but I'm not sure I have ever seen him upside down before. How the heck did that happen, bad fall or something?

Then you see him climbing out of a fire pit or something. I looks like he is climbing AT NIGHT fer cryin our loud.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 27, 2009 - 11:06am PT
Actually, right after I took that photo, he quietly muttered, "help"and so I got on all fours under and kind of pushed him up so he could get his foot unlocked. You should ask im about it...
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Oct 27, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Besides all that, Lynne, it was getting kind of fuzzy.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Oct 27, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
You guys and gals are crazy....but that will make me look good for a change :D

Edit: this is why when people (like donini and the wyde masters suggest trying more cracks I get a little nervous.) I like "no stickum's" meaning yo not getting stuck in a crack.....especially wrong side up.
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 27, 2009 - 05:56pm PT


I love you guys!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 02:57am PT
something that doesn't get discussed enough - bump
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:25am PT
And he's having another Wyde event this week on his redwood antichrist.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Yeah, big Wide event last night.
email invitation to 44 people, only Stephen McCabe could make it.
No lines, no waiting!
The fog had rolled in, after a hot day,
but we were doing some serious perspiring (no sweat, right?).
A couple of weeks ago, we had six climbers, of whom four made it up the
crack without falling.
It must be about time to adjust the width again.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jul 10, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Oh Yeah,

If anyone wants to give this monster a go, shoot me a message and get onto
the invitation list.
That would surely be an improvement over the folks who say "don't take me off
the list" but hae never showed up in three years.

29 ft tall climb, overhanging, with little roof, changing corners, flared
pod, maybe 8 ft extra height one of these days...
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 10, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Steve - you keep setting this when I am out of town! Hi from Washington State.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
Yeah, me too!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jul 10, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Well, how about next week?
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
I can't make it but would like to be on the list. Immediatly please if possible.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Scuffy, whatever you do, please DO NOT put me on that list!

:) Phyl "Small Hands" P.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
What about maybe aug 5th?

I have small hands too, Phyl!


Any chance you can repost the first photo, Munge?
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
I have other excuses.

Phyl "Fragile Skin" P.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
.....tape.......
Though Scuffy doesn't use it
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:07am PT
Scuffy, I LOVE being on the list. I am so sorry I can never get down there during the week. (hangs head, shuffles feet)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2013 - 12:13am PT
wish I could Jay. Actually, it's from monsteroffwidth...

it got pulled...
http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/temp/78-bawc/IMG_C0426.jpg
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jul 11, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Hold your head high, Daphne!!
It's a pleasure to keep you updated.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
loaded one of your pics Jaybro

the circle is complete
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