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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2009 - 01:19pm PT
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The "holiday" was, Cleo's Birthday!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eyROvw6zbY
Lots of new routes require a certain amount of preparation, but few, quite like this;
The goal was to deepen the Zanderland wide crrck an additional 10'(?) changing it from a strictly stacking problem to an armbar project, as well. Previously Zander had coated the boards with a mixture of latex (?) and deck paint to give them texture.
after the clips were installed, the boards were passed through the existing crack and screwed in to the back of the boards.
Nutjob putting the Squeeze, on.
Time for the 1st Ascent. The man himself, Zander sends it;
though not without a certain amount of
effort
That sent the rest of the cast filtered in;
from as far away as Santa Cruz and Marin.
for a record attendence of 13 twisted souls.
Em cruising thinhands
Daphne encounters 'The Narrows'
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 23, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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WOOT!!!!
man wish I could have made it
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 23, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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pretty cool, eh!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Oct 23, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Would it be weird to say Zander gives ya'll wood?
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Oct 23, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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Yano, pain is a deterrent to most folks. . .
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Oct 23, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Hoh man, that last pic...thousand words for sure.
"Oh, we've got something good in store for you. It's your side in. 5.8+...no really"
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Oct 23, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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I'd climb there.
What are the LEO's like?...I don't want to get tooled if I attempt an illegal bivy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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There was talk of a future pajama party. People could doss on the woodworking tables, place of honor of course, would be the one with the table saw.
Though Dapne has to sleep on a portaledge.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 23, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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Jay...
I really did miss out on this one...
damn!
next time...
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 23, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Damn!
Came in too late from the Eastside. Zanderland looks sweet. Next opportunity...
Then there's this:
Fattrad/Walling '12
endorsed by John Long
Bet there are some Wide planks in that platform...
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 23, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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I think it's fair to say a good time was had by all!
The upside-down squeeze is a fun party trick, but my new full-body work-out is definitely the Reverse Narrows. Scuffy was the visionary to open our eyes to a world of possibility, and Alex was the hero to prove it could be done.
Between that and the fingerlocks crack, I felt beat up like a proper Yosemite adventure.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
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deja vu
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 23, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
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Happy birthday cleo!
Yeah it was fun. PhilB's son was there. Young high schooler. He's saying, you guys are nuts. I'm not into pain.
Hmmm, he might have a point there.......
Zander
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 23, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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Wish I were there :D No parties in the frozen social waste of So Cal that I can determine except perhaps in Josh.....which we will be headed to soon.
Hanging upside down in a crack makes me sweat abit and I feel slight anxiety crack Doctor......lynnie
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 23, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
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Zanderland !!!
Looking good: earning strong points for concept and build out.
What is wanting at this juncture, is a finishing treatment, such as thematic noodlings neatly applied to spruce up the décor.
Who's the resident muralist?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 23, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
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But what kind of noodlings Tar?
Traditional, with each beam faux painted a different color of rock, Yos Granite on the left to Navajo Sandstone on the right, or should we get Mr. Haun to come in and do a psychedelic/historical number on it? Tough decision.
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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Nile Decco, of course!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 23, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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Must agree with Tarbuster. I knew something was missing, just couldn't identify. Some granite grey with flecks of black and silver....a tweek of JTree black and gold ya get the drift. And maybe some arrows pointed in the right direction so "Some climbers" know which way up the Crack....hehehehe, Cheers, lynnie
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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We're in 360º dizzy up here, without yo, Lynnie! If yo moved up here we'd deal with this directly. I know you'd get a gut cracking laugh out of it.
BtW, you never told me how the other day went...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 23, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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faux painted a different color of rock
I'm thinking that's too pedestrian; no point in trying to emulate when you can lead....
Nile Decco
This is more in the direction of what I was thinking.
Something pushing further into the thematic realms: for instance, when I heard about Zanderland, what first came to mind was something way more kitsch ... a la the Matterhorn of Disneyland.
So I saw the happy cartoonish faces of Zander himself, flanked by twinkling candy canes, fancy carabiners, & voluptuous maidens.
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