FA of Weird Science, 5.7, A4(R), Kingfisher, Fishers, Utah

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Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 22, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
That’s right my peeps!!! Tis the season for MUDDDDDDDDDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You know the drill…grab a cold one…sit your sweet ass down…and get ready to groove out.

For a more realistic feel, don’t take a shower for 9 days, don your helmet, and have a loved one pour sand and dirt over your head while you read this!

Don’t forget to keep a hand over your beer or you’ll be sorry…it will be just like being there! WOO HOO!!!

So anyhoo, a little back-story…a couple weeks ago I was out in the Mysteries with my buddy Joe to attempt the 3rd ascent of the Big Nasty on the Doric Column. After the SOUL CRUSHING hike out to the tower, Joe tweaked his knee pretty bad walking under the Gothic. See…Joe had been in a kayak for over 90 days going from Montana? to New Orleans. In other words, his arms were buff…but he had pretty much been confined to a wheelchair…not ideal conditions to carry 80lbs of iron for HOURS on end! We added a new first pitch to the route, drank all of our beers, had a smoke, left the gear stashed, and bailed back to the car. It rained the nest morning and we drove back home to Denver and Albuquerque.

13 hours of driving, 7 hours of hiking, 120 feet of climbing…bitching no?

Joe immediately left for Africa for 2 months after our “hike”…so I had a sh#t ton of gear and ropes to go retrieve…I wouldn’t want anybody to steal (insert guffaw/eye roll here) it so I better get back out there quick!

As you know, finding a partner for something like this can be tough…I needed someone experienced…someone seasoned…in a stroke of genius I decided to take a look at the AARP website to find a suitable partner.

Able bodied…check…possible dementia…check…somewhat dense yet adverse to pain and suffering…check…and submit…(computer noises here) it took a sec to get the name back…and boy was I surprised at the results!

It was my buddy Paul Gagner!!!! What a crazy, mixed up world we live in!

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After a couple conversations…and talking him out of going to some other climbing area called Yosemite…we were on to meet up in Moab for 9 days…the only catch was that I do Infrared (5.11+/5.12) on Big Bend Butte…this turned out to be the crux of the trip. Long story short…Paul cruised the route and I got SCHOOLED by the 5.10+ , #3/#3.5 fist cracks!!!! Take…whip…take…whip…Hell the crux pitch was EASY compared to that nonsense…I better stop this mud crap and get out to The Creek…but I digress…

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The morning finds us out on Onion Creek road getting ready to hike in to The Doric. Despite the fact that the whole nailing rack and all sorts of other crap was already up there…our packs were WAY heavy! WTF I say to Paul? He looks at me…and utters these two words…beer weight…genius I say…and who says the elderly have nothing to offer…

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We eventually get out there (after a slight Jeremy-induced detour) and I knock off the new pitch I did with Joe. Paul quickly leads the next new pitch that places us below the crux A4 lead! I won’t give any critical info away…but I will say it’s a great pitch that has a pretty “interesting” start to it! DON’T FALL!!!!!!!!! I get to the belay finding only a slung flake (huge yet kinda freaky to jug on) for the belay and NO belay bolt (Duane had told me there was a bolt)! So I drill a nice 3/8 x 31/2 incher (with Duane’s approval), equalize the belay, and Paul comes on up.

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Missing photo ID#131939

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Fix…rap…hike to cold beers…drink beers…eat…sleep…hike back up to Doric…

The next day finds Paul on the sharp end on a SUPER reachy bolt ladder (thanks Walt)…I don’t really remember my pitch but what I do know is that we got to the top and started the raps as dark (and no frigging moon) descended over the Mysteries. We are supposed to rap the original Forrest route so we set up an anchor and descend into THE TUBE OF DOOM!!!!! What a nightmare! RAPPING THIS THING SUCKS!!!! Rope gets stuck…I jug back up and free the rope…rope almost gets stuck again on some relic of a bolt (as Duane said happened to him)…eventually we are back on the ground…warm beer has never tasted so good!!!!

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It’s now pitch dark…we are toasted from a long day…and we have a TON of gear to get down to the car…it will take 2 hours to get back…possibly more…there are the fixed ropes to descend…down climbs…ugh Dude…this is gonna suck big-time…

Wait? What was that I hear?? Let’s just bivy here??? Hmmm…we do still have 8 beers, food, smokes and a bunch of water…we could just shove our little footsies in our packs and sleep like babies…SOLD!

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Missing photo ID#131946

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The night totally sucked due to the lame wind/sand storm/cold action…but it eventually got light and we hit the road to gorge ourselves on a MASSIVE breakfast! MMMM BACON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After eating and lounging for a bit, we packed up shop and went out to the Fishers to scope a new route on the Kingfisher…just to the left of Beyer’s Death of American Democracy.

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Missing photo ID#131948

Paul had thought the line would follow crack systems up and over towards the opposite side of Jagged Edge…but the more we looked/imagined/drank…we were able to piece a line together that just might go up a very thin system of seams/corners and a bit of blankety-blank about 40-50 feet left of DOAD. Straight shot to the top so it seemed!!!! This thing would be WAY thinner than DOAD. Hopefully we could connect the dots and keep the bolting to an absolute minimum…cuz as you know, drilling sucks…and we are lazy…

Drink beers…eat…sleep…hike back up to Kingfisher with packs full of gear, beer, water, and sandwiches…

Somehow in a BEER INDUCED HAZE, Paul tricks me into leading the first pitch…this puppy turns out to be the crux of the route. I am able to get a couple pieces in (in like a pocketed tafoni mud/clay/choss layer), drill 2 bolts, and get into the crack system about 10/15 feet off the ground. What followed was a bunch of beaks (24? More?), big ones and little ones…most were kinda A-frame style…you know…when you have like 2-3 teeth into the rock and the base is balanced on a nubbin below with air in between…totally squirrely…and only good for a bit of downward pull…any sideways movement and you are hosed (really Dude). This went on for 80? 90? feet till the system totally blanked out and I had to drill 2 more bolts…interspersed with #1 beaks. I’m not really good at all this aid rating mumbo-jumbo…but the possibility of ripping the whole string of jive and taking a 90 foot grounder was very real (in retrospect…on lead it seemed quasi-bomber :-). A4? A4R? A1? Who knows? Bring a sh#t-ton of beaks and move very slowly. Eventually I got to the belay, drilled a couple bolts and Paul jugged on up.

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Missing photo ID#131949

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As these leads were going to take a while, we decide that a pitch a day would be appropriate. This would let us have a nice breakfast, casual hike to the base with a bit of gear/beer, jug, lead, clean, fix, rap and hike down back to camp with light to spare. Very relaxing…I HIGHLY recommend this system! Kinda like sport climbing for the Fishers!!!!!

That the first pitch went with so few bolts really got us pumped! This baby might actually go!? Paul took over the next pitch and was able to link a series of small features (many, many manky beaks) to a couple bolts to many more manky beaks to the belay! WOO HOO!!!! Another hard pitch (A3) down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hike down to camp…drink beers…eat…sleep…hike back up to with packs full of gear, beer, water, and sandwiches…

The 3rd pitch looked like more of the same…a bunch of thin (usable?) seams leading to the sky…I took off with a rack of beaks and nothing else…well, maybe a baby angle or 2 just for kicks! In a total stroke of luck this thing went down with NO BOLTS!!!!!!!! UNREAL!!! We are so in!!!! Soon I am drilling some belay bolts and Paul is on his way up! Another A3ish pitch in the bag!

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Hanging at the belay…it looks like Paul can tension off of the anchor and gain a thin calcite seam around the corner then up some sandy choss to the caprock. THE CAPROCK RULES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But first we must hike down to camp…drink beers…eat…sleep…hike back up to Kingfisher with packs full of gear, beer, water, and sandwiches…2 pitches in a day is a bit to much…if you know what I mean…and I think you do…

We jug back up our fixed lines (so much fun…) and Paul launches off onto the next pitch. He finally gets some beaks to stick and he is soon stuck in this way lame sandy/choss layer. A barrage of sand and dirt and mud clods continually pound me…my head…my shoulders…crap gets in my beer…and my tasty can of pineapple gets jacked by sand and dirt…I can feel my teeth wear down as I crunch away…mmmm…

Eventually Paul reaches the caprock and cruises on up to a nice ledge! WOO FRIGGING HOO!!! I think he placed a bolt or 2 on this pitch??? Sweet lead Paul!

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The belay bolts go in and soon I am off on the next mini pitch to the summit…20 feet later I am on top!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Paul comes on up and we scramble to the tiny detached summit…that is of course…covered in a variety of super loose choss…seems the only other route that accesses this little deal is Jagged Edge! PRETTY COOL DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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As we are preparing to rap…two guys summit the Colorado ridge and look over with a WTF look on their faces! They are on the main summit and we chat each other up for a bit! GREAT JOB GUYS!!!!! I bet they didn’t expect to see us up there! BWAHAHAHAHAA!!!!

The coolest part about this route was that we were able to rap it…TOTALLY bitching rap my friends…a piece of cake!

All in all…I think we placed 14 lead bolts and 10 belay bolts on the route over the four days…not to shabby for 5 pitches of new route in the Fishers me thinks…all bolts have hangers and all belay bolts are 3/8 x 3 or 4 inchers!! BOMBER!

We tried and tried to think up a good name that would jive with the other highlight of the trip…BACON!!!!...but we couldn’t get anything to work…then Paul can up with it…Weird Science…as in there is definitely a science in a beaking route like this…and it sure as Hell was weird!

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Weird Science, 5.7, A4(R) – 5 pitches…500 feet - Grade V - Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, UT

FA – Jeremy Aslaksen, Paul Gagner - 10/14 – 10/17/2009


Well, there you have it! What an AWESOME TRIP with an AWESOME PARTNER!!!!

Good times man…good times… WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now go GET ON IT before the mud covers it again!


Jeremy


BTW...special thanks to Lyle and Roxanne!!!!!!!!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Oct 22, 2009 - 02:40pm PT
Nice job boys, that should get some people stoked.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Oct 22, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
Jeremy - That was a super fun trip. That first pitch you led on Weird Science was really serious - certainly a very heads-up, no fall zone - great job!

Now go work on some wide cracks!!

Paul
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
DAMN!!!!

That's some badass sh!t right there!!!!1

Very nice work fellas! Great pics/read too!

Smiling ear to ear right now...

CHEERS!
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
Great work guys!!!

Got the FA!!!

SWEET!!!!!!

Not only that... but it looks like a kick a$$ line too!

Good find!!
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
nice write-up, thanks for sharing!

lamadera

Trad climber
New Mexico
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
Jeremy, you are well on your way to becoming a mud-master. Good job.

Mick
Pate

Mountain climber
MILF Island
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
whoa.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 22, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
WOOHOO!!!!!!
You guys are the Kings of Mudd!
That's a THIN line over there. Right on for Weird Science!

Woot!
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
Mick,

Ha! Thanks! What's up?

Hope to see you out at 3-Gun.

Hope all is well with the family.

Jeremy
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
SKULLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What's up dude?

J
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 22, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
Sounds like YOU are!!!!
'Grats on a grand FA, BroMan.
WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 22, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
Hey guys, you got yourselves a nice direct line there. Very cool looking first pitch, with only four bolts. Excellent work!
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
Oct 22, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
CHURCH! hell yeah boys!


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 22, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
The munge sits aptly humbled.

Well done!!!

great TR, great way to find the gem in the mud.



mud4lyfe!!

M
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 22, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
Y'all conjured a beauty!


Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
Thanks Crusher!

The thing that looks TOTALLY cool is the Atlas!!!

WOO HOO!!!!

Can't wait to see the book!

Hope all is well.

Jeremy
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Oct 22, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
Ho Man...I don't want anything to do with that mud nailing...but I do like to hear about it!

Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
BTW...the rock on this route seemed much crappier (especially up high...and down low) than Death of American Democracy. You would think that being so close would mean the rock quality would be similar...NOT!

The last pitch to the caprock (BOMBER) had some "craptacular" (I poached your word Beth!) rock.

It was very sandy and crunchy.

Just a little 411 for the next party up there.

:-)

WOO HOO!!!!!

Jeremy
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
Wow, too many photos to load.
Did the name come from Balloon Dad?
schwortz

Social climber
davis, ca
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
awesome
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
Sh#t Ron...you still on dial-up?

WTF?

Wait a sec...I don't even have the internets at my house...I just poach somebody's wireless on my porch!

My bad Ron!

:-)
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Oct 22, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
EXCELLENT youse guys!
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
Oct 22, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
Right on, I needed that, Thank You for posting!!!!
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Oct 22, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
You guys frickin' ROCK! This just made my week SOOO much better. Thanks, and it's gems like this that keep me coming back even when I get down from the drivel.

Makes Sedona sandstone seem bomber! hehe...

Edit: Just checked and it wasn't in the TR forum - be sure and post it there.

Erik
yo

climber
a tied-off Tomahawk™
Oct 22, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
Mamacita!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 22, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
It's a Mystery Towers Bump, Ya'll!

Oh, Yeah. (psst....There's mudd)
Rankin

climber
North Carolina
Oct 22, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
Awesome Jeremy! The Fishers are one of my favorite places. I've got to go back, man....
Technogeekery

Trad climber
Tokyo, Japan
Oct 22, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
You guys are amazing! Great TR, and congratulations on the new route. This type of climbing looks truly hideous, but reading about it and looking at the pics really satisfies my secret schadenfreude :-)

Nice one.
TROGDORtheBURNIiNATOR

climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 22, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
Awesome job!! Gives me the willies just thinking about it.

Was cool running in to you guys up there.

Here you are about to top it out:

-Jason
elstudio.pro

Trad climber
Oct 22, 2009 - 10:44pm PT
amazing...good to see you out playing!
eKat

Trad climber
BITD2
Oct 22, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
FrikkenLowLifes!

GET OUT OF THE MUD!

:-)

O
M
G
!

Youz dadz are SO darling!

I am SO glad you got to make mud pies.

So. . . Jer. . . are you a GermanSwede?

And. . . goneYAY. . . GET A JOB!

I love you both!

oxoxo

eKat
eKat

Trad climber
BITD2
Oct 22, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
TROGDOR?

THE BURNINATOR?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gz1DIIxmEE

Here, at theTacoStand?

We are blessed!

ox

eKat

P.S. CONSUMATE Vs. . . I SAID CONSUMATE Vs!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 22, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
TROGDOR!

Burninating the Countryside........
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 22, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
Hanging curtains of mud;......about as much fun as two kids could have;....well done, and thanks for sharing;....you guys threw it down....all the way downtown.....
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 22, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
Check out all his Majesty!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
. . . not !
Oct 23, 2009 - 02:20am PT
Sick looking form . . .
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Oct 23, 2009 - 10:00am PT
right on!

I'm glad there was beer involved.

screw granite, that is sissy stuff...............
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 10:33am PT
eKat,

Dad's Norwegian and Mom's Irish!!!

I'm WAY WHITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BWAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!

WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

xo

Jeremy
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 23, 2009 - 10:52am PT
When I saw you guy's at Lyle and Roxanne's , I thought "wow, those guy's clean up well." Good job! "R" indeed, that climb has XXX written all over it.
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 11:08am PT
Jim,

Great to meet you and Jay (and Lyle and Roxanne)!

Thanks for the kind words.

Hope to see you around!

Have fun on your trip!

Take care.

Jeremy
eKat

Trad climber
BITD2
Oct 23, 2009 - 11:20am PT
MegaWayWhite!

WOOT!

ox

eKat
BriGuy

climber
black hills
Oct 23, 2009 - 11:43am PT
wow, great job guys, you must really dig beaks, also, i like your style of ascent and you are clearly setting the standard for Fisher ascents, my hat if off to you guys, proud route for sure, outstanding TR, thank you for posting
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Oct 23, 2009 - 11:51am PT
Super Bump!
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Oct 23, 2009 - 12:53pm PT
The line "awesome....totally awesome" doesn't even begin to cover this.

Killer job guys. Tough stuff and you still make it all seem FUN!

And Jeremey, yet another stellar TR. I'm always so happy when I see you've posted a new one cause with the pics, writing style and the adventures you have, I know I'm in for some great entertainment. Cheers again.
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
Hey Beth!

Thanks! Have you been out there since you did that route with Klaus?

Hope to meet up someday in person!

I plan on making it out to Jtree this winter...so who knows!

Hope all is well.

Jeremy

skywalker

climber
Oct 23, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
Bump
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Oct 23, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
Hey Donini - It was great to see Jay and you at Lyle and Roxanne's house. Did you guys finish your project? When are we getting out...?

Paul
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Oct 26, 2009 - 09:55am PT
bump, because this is a climbing forum.

and bump, because there is mud involved.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Oct 26, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
Bump
Whatever with the mud....
You guys are FVCKING CLASSIC!!!!!!
Super entertaining.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 26, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
Great psych my friends!

Excellent TR, YOu guys sure do make it interesting on the choss!

A4 Happy beaking sounds like a great way to start a route.

Good work on allocating enough "Hydrabeers" for the mission, No way that thing would have gone down without the HB's!

Mucci
joepuryear

climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
Oct 27, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
Hey Paul and Jeremy - great to meet you guys out there. Here are a few shots I took of you from Echo Tower. Shoot me an email and I'll send them to you full size. Great work on the new route!!!

Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science. <br/>
Kingfisher, Fisher Tow...
Paul and Jeremy on the F.A. of Weird Science.
Kingfisher, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Credit: Joe Puryear
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
Joe,

AWESOME PICS!!!!!!

What happened on Cottontail?

Anyhoo, great to meet ya and hope to see you out there again!

WOO HOO!!!!

Jeremy
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Oct 27, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
holy motherf*#king mud bump...sick, bro...
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
Joe,

Just sent you an email!!!

WOW with the pics!!!

Our pics SUCK compared to yours!!!!

You guys FLEW up Echo!!!!!!!!!

I barely finished an on lead sixer and you guys were done!!!

NICE!

Jeremy
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
Oct 28, 2009 - 02:00am PT
maybe I need new glasses er sumfin but...

how did you spot the line? I can't see sh#t up there?!
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Oct 28, 2009 - 04:39am PT
Hey Jeremy. Nope, no Fishers trip this time around in Moab. Just climbing, towers and cracks. Only had a week. One of these days I'll make it back to the Fishers. This was my first return to Moab since the FA trip with Eric. Used to go out there every October and April but life took some strange turns. Got a lot of catching up to do. I sure did miss the Fishers mud though. Would love to get back on it again.

As always, I love living vicariously through your wonderful journeys there. If you ever need a belay slave for the stuff, lemme know.

Come on out to JT. My home turf :)! Always good times to be had.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 28, 2009 - 09:24am PT
Mudd, slaves & BEER!
It doesn't get much better than that............
gcclimbing

climber
www.Arizonas-Vertical-Web.com
Oct 28, 2009 - 10:01am PT
I'll drink to that...now go take your Rx
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 11:58am PT
Beth,

I will be out there fer sure!

I'll make sure to give you a ring...we can drink all or Russ's booze...

:-)

Jeremy
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Oct 28, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Glad Tom pointed me to this thread!

Damn Jeremy and Gagner! That thing looks insane!!!!

MUD BUMP FOR THE MUD GANGSTA'S!!!!!1111

One of these days we'll have to get out Jer, though no A4R? (haha) for me!!

cheers,

Patrick

edit: havent been on the taco for alittle bit, but this is the BEST TR ever!!!!

you are the real f@cking deal!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Oct 28, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
"Word".

(mudd!)
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Oct 30, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
bump for the mudder climbers.
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#133656

Here you go kids! Go git after it!!!!!!

BTW, bring a belay seat, goggles, and a hat to keep the rain of dirt/sand/chunks out yer eyes!

WOO HOO!!!!

Jeremy
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Nov 12, 2009 - 03:55am PT
wow, great tr. having been lucky enough to climb with monsiuer gag nay for thirty years, there is not much about him that surprises me. paul and i did tribal rite earlier this year and now wonder he floated every pitch, granite must be a piece of cake compared to this mud.
hey paul, can you come out and play with me next year, i want to have a partyfest on something really hard.
sh8ipoopoi
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
Hey guys, I'm not sure what you mean with the Birdbeak sizing on the topo. The A5 Birdbeaks only ever came in one size, which I would call “just right.”

Do you maybe mean Peckers, which, widthwise, are highly tapered and toothed like anorexic Lost Arrows on a meth binge?

Or perhaps Toucans, much uniformly thin, knifeblade style, with subtle teeth and the slightly crooked necks?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
maybe they were using some of these badboys?

http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/880047/TOMAHAWKS

Check out the mud beaks partway down in the OP...

This is just a guess though....
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
Crusher,

Paul meant Pecker sizes...and yes...I just said Pecker sizes you sick bastards.

You see...Paul is old and he isn't too hip on the new gear and whatnot. I should've checked his topo. :-)

BTW, we had a couple old beaks (A5) that I had scarfed off towers here and there. I got some WICKED placements with those puppies on this route.

I need to check out those Tomahawks...they look SWEET!!!

Jeremy


MUD BEAK EDIT: Beaks in drilled holes...tsk...tsk...:-)Heeheehee...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
Alright....I'm a bad guesser...guess I should of just reread for a more educated guess....

cool lookin gear though.
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
Tom,

They do look cool huh?

I wish he made BIG ONES!

Maybe someday!

BTW, is this day over yet???

WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!

Jeremy

Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
Steve BUMP!

GAGner is the MAN!

I hope when I'm 65 like him I can climb half as good!

BWAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:-)

Jeremy
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
I bet you could score some big ones...looks like he made a bunch of prototypes....have you investigated?
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Nov 12, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Yea, yea, yea....

65 Jeremy??? - that makes you what, 14?

I hope I'm climbing hard at 65 ... like Donini! It's not the climbing that gets me though, it's the walking....

I've had a hard time separating Beaks from Peckers (even though I tested many, many years ago some original Pecker prototypes)- Beaks have become kinda' the Kleenix of this genre of pitons.

Steve -Welcome back - I hope India was fun - let's get some plans in motion!!

Paul
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Don't worry Paul...I'll carry the pins and the beer...you lead the wide cracks!

Deal?

Jeremy

DONINI EDIT: Jim kicks ASS!!!!!!!
Tea

Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
Dec 23, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Bump for some chosstacular stoke!
Plaidman

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Dec 24, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
Nice line. You guys are bad ass.

Plaidman

Why is patience a virtue?
Cause not many people have it.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
Dec 25, 2009 - 10:39am PT
And one MUST be patient when the boyz are talkin' pecker sizes.
Haha!

Crazy shizz, Daddy-O!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 24, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
Climbing Bump for the Mudd Maestro!

WHOOOOOP!!

Mucci
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